Re: [Harp-L] Lee Oskar reed plates

[Joseph Leone <3n037@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

All very true. When I referred to putting the screws into the FREE reed plate first, I was suggesting to cut the threads at that time. What I always did was to cut the threads PAST the point that they would 
NEED to be cut and then placing the screw aside. So, after cutting all the threads and placing all the screws aside *** IN ORDER ***, I was able to use exactly the same screws for the correct threads
that they cut. And I always start screws by turning them IN REVERSE..until I feel a slight 'click'. Then I know that the ramp angle of the screw is meeting the ramp angle of the threaded hole correctly.
And yes, you are very correct when advising to send the screws home in a progressive pattern. This is common practice when fitting access panels which have a plethora of screws. Because if you 
don't start ALL the screws first BEFORE sending them home, you usually wind up with a few screws in one corner of the panel which won't line up. Good explanation Steve. 

smokey-joe (experience comes from electrical background)

On Jan 6, 2016, at 6:21 AM, Steve wrote:

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>> On 6 Jan 2016, at 05:45, "Joseph Leone" <3n037@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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>> Right you are Doug. What one wants to do is drive the screws into the RECEIVER plate with the plate OFF of the comb. To get the FULL thread penetration. Then assemble the harp.  What I think is happening here is that there is SO much resistance when the threads are being cut, that the operator gets to a hard point BUT that hard point is not QUITE at the FREEZE point. 
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>> smo-joe
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> It's true that you need to get the feel for when the screws are snug but not over-tightened. After I'd done my very first LO plate swap I got the idea for the rest of my life.  I think that an essential part of the procedure is to tighten the screws progressively. They can even squeal a bit as they're cutting the thread, which is a good sign, not a bad sign. Tightening one screw fully before the others are properly bedding down not only risks distortion but also prevents you from getting the right feel for when the job's done, snugged down but not jammed down.  Round and round you go, always checking that everything's in line, including the covers at the end of the job.  Good idea to have a good look at the harp close up before each part of the dismantling so that you know where everything goes back. 
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