Re: [Harp-L] Lee Oskar reed plates

[Joseph Leone <3n037@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Right you are Doug. What one wants to do is drive the screws into the RECEIVER plate with the plate OFF of the comb. To get the FULL thread penetration. Then assemble the harp.  What I think is happening here is that there is SO much resistance when the threads are being cut, that the operator gets to a hard point BUT that hard point is not QUITE at the FREEZE point. 

smo-joe

On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:09 PM, Doug Schroer wrote:

> I played LOs for over 10 years and did lots of reed plate swaps.  I still
> have 30 or so LOs that I use as car harps and for outdoor playing in colder
> weather.  I used to play FAR too hard, and D harps were the most failure
> prone for me (and still are).  In my opinion all LOs are a little more airy
> than Crossovers or Manjis, or even SP20s, even if everything is assembled
> correctly.  However, it sounds as though that is not the issue, as this
> harp seems leaky to you compared to other LOs.
> 
> If the comb worked OK for a different set of plates in another key it
> should work with the D plates.  I think that all LO combs are the same.  It
> must be an assembly issue.
> 
> The screws are self tapping when you install new plates.  I had to
> disassemble and reassemble LOs on several occasions in the past because I
> had not fully tightened the screws because I was fearful of over
> tightening.  Because the screws were not fully threaded through the plate,
> the assembly was loose and the harp leaked.
> 
> I would suggest trying to take it apart and reassemble it a couple times
> before getting into any mods like sanding.  Proper reassembly It always
> fixed it for me when I encountered this.
> 
> Doug S.