RE: [Harp-L] Altering reed slots

["Andras Csapo" <ac4music@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

When I was thinking doing a low tuning on the upper end a while ago I was
planning to use two pairs of reed plates per harp and cut them in half then
put the two low end together on the comb. Then drill the hole for the cover
plate screws and possible for the other screws. I never carried through with
it, but would that be a viable solution? I know people who made extra long
harps using  this method and it seemed to work fine. On the surface it seems
like a lot easier way to go about it - of course you would need an extra
pair of reed plates.

Anybody tried something like this? 

AC

-----Original Message-----
From: harp-l-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx [mailto:harp-l-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of Vern
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 5:00 PM
To: joe leone
Cc: Harp L Harp L
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Altering reed slots

Different long splices for different captains.

I anticipated that my approach might be too fussy and fastidious for a
person who can fashion a reed from a razor blade.  I knew that Joe would
favor a more direct metal-and-chips attack!

Although I can't deny that you could make your method work, I (and the
average person) would stand a pretty good chance of irreversibly spoiling
the plate.  

How about this?
- Install the short reed in the too-long slot with no gap.
- Cut about .050" of the slug off of the tip of a long reed.
- Stick it and a .001" plastic shim in the slot and against the tip of the
reed with tiny dabs of wax on each side.   
- Glue it in place with epoxy or soda-filled super glue.
- File flush with the surfaces of the plate.

Now the end of the slot is brass with a sharp edge and you know that the
slot will be the correct length before you apply the glue.

Since neither of us has actually done this, are we carrying a hypothetical
discussion beyond the interest of the harp-l subscribers?   ;o)

Vern
   
On Aug 9, 2010, at 2:36 PM, joe leone wrote:

> But you're a genius. I would do it differently. I would take a self
tapping ss mach screw and drive it into the end of the slot. Then replace it
with a brass mach screw and  then file off both sides and then square up the
end of the slot. Not that my method is better, just what I'm more
comfortable with.
> 
> smo-joe
> 
> On Aug 9, 2010, at 4:13 PM, Vern wrote:
> 
>> I have not ever shortened a slot, but I would approach it in the
following way.
>> 
>> - Find a reedplate having a slot of the desired length.
>> - Place a piece of masking tape over the reed and slot. Better
yet...remove the reed before placing the tape.
>> - Turn the reedplate over.
>> - Build a well around the slot with masking tape.
>> - Spray the well and slot with parting compound.
>> - Fill the well and slot with silicone rubber.
>> - Cut with an Xacto knife around the reed so that the rubber will come
out of the slot. Keep the knife out of the slot.
>> - Clean the slot to be shortened with alcohol so the epoxy will stick.
>> - Insert the rubber mold in the slot to be shortened.
>> - Be careful not to touch the inside of the slot where the epoxy will go
with the rubber mold that is coated with parting compound.
>> - Fill the unwanted length with epoxy.
>> - Remove the rubber mold.
>> - File/sand away any epoxy protruding above the surface of the plate.
>> 
>> The silicone mold can be saved and used repeatedly.
>> 
>> You can get the silicone rubber and parting compound from MicroMark and
the epoxy & tape at the hardware store.
>> It isn't cheap, but you must be highly motivated to attempt this in the
first place.  ;o)
>> 
>> Good news: A minimum order of silicone rubber will do a very large number
of slots.
>> Bad news: Silicone rubber has a shelf life of less than a year.  So get
busy!
>> 
>> I predict that the slot will be very close to the desired length and only
a tiny amount of filing (if any) will be required.
>> 
>> It might work!
>> 
>> Vern
>> 
>> On Aug 9, 2010, at 10:44 AM, joe leone wrote:
>> 
>>> On Aug 9, 2010, at 11:15 AM, Gary Lehmann wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Just reading a little Pat Missin and read about altering reed slots to
>>>> accomodate shorter reeds . . .
>>> 
>>> How? with solder? liquid steel? aqua mend? set screw? It would have to
be something that can take a HARD sharp edge. For the air splitting,
>>> 
>>>> Do anyone reading these words alter their reed slots?
>>> 
>>> yes, but mostly I lengthen the slots, not shorten them. All it takes is
a .10" square tapered file.
>>> 
>>>> Seems like (I am now realizing) that tunings like the one Michael Rubin
>>>> proposed a few months back, with bass notes on top, would be fairly
doable
>>>> if one were to alter the reed plate (now why did I not consider that
that
>>>> was possible?) . . .
>>> 
>>> You haven't worked with metal?
>>> 
>>>> Why, you could even manifest the "ska tuning" as proposed by my buddy
Grant
>>>> Osborne, where all reeds were tuned to the same note . . .
>>>> If you needed a hobby, that is . . .
>>> 
>>> OR, you could find a life.  lolol
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> G
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>