[Harp-L] Arbor Press to fasten reeds

[Vern]

Your SilverWing  system has many desirable features.  However, I question a pointed punch for removing rivets.  A sharp point tends to spread the rivet.  This can make the removal more difficult and alter the hole.  Its only advantage is that it is an easy shape to grind.

I posit that the optimum shape for the punch point is a cylinder about .035” in diameter (a bit smaller than the hole) and about .050” long ( a bit longer than the plate thickness).  This can project from a larger diameter punch shank.  This shape is stronger than a point, spreads the pressure over almost all of the rivet face, and won’t damage the hole if it is pushed too far.  

I viewed the video and did not understand how filing the rivet head at an angle can move the reed position.  A large part of the video is dedicated to adjustments after the rivet is set.  This is what often defeated me when I tried to employ rivets.  I’m aware that many technicians use rivets routinely and that my problems may have arisen my lack of skill and experience.  I had much better results with screws.

The ideal system would not depend on the location or shape of holes in the reed or plate or on the process of installing screws or rivets,  You would locate the reed in the slot and fasten it without any strong forces or torques on the reed base.   Welding meets these criteria but welders are very expensive .

In lieu of welding, I experimented with resistance soldering.  I use it myself.   Although I don’t plan to sell the equipment, I would furnish information to anyone wanting to try soldering. I have illustrated the process in this video:
https://youtu.be/DOBJCpZQ68Y <https://youtu.be/DOBJCpZQ68Y>

You can also see my home-grown punch in action.

Vern



> On Sep 26, 2018, at 5:38 PM, Michelle LeFree <mlefree at xxxxx> wrote:
> 
> …………..hardened O-1 tool steel punches: 1 tapered (pointed) to remove old rivets…………... 
> 
>