Re: [Harp-L] Steel reeds and tuning at the root



SS is harder than brass or bronze. This means that grinding will work better than scraping or filing.  I used a Shofu Brownie wheel which has a fine abrasive in a hard-rubbery matrix.  It takes longer on SS than it does on brass/bronze but eventually gets the work done and leaves a nice polished surface.

I recommend using a plug-in fingernail spindle. A battery-powered fingernail spindle is underpowered. A Dremel tool is overpowered.

Vern


On Aug 1, 2013, at 4:08 PM, Steve Shaw <moorcot@xxxxxxx> wrote:

>> You were perceptive to notice that your 1847 stainless steel reeds were not
>> tuned at the root of the reeds. I must take the covers off my own five year
>> old 1847 and see whether the same applies.
>> 
>> Having a mechanical engineering background I would agree with you that
>> introducing 'stress raisers' at the point of maximum stress in a component
>> subject to cyclical loadings is not a good idea.
>> 
>> Since purchasing and playing an 1847 I have become a convert to stainless
>> steel reeds. I am looking forward to getting my hands on one of Seydel's new
>> "Samplers", which apparently feature S/S reeds in a chromatic "chassis".
>> 
>> Beannachtai
>> 
>> Aongus Mac Cana
>> 
> 
> I'm still in mourning for the demise of the low D Special 20. Even Antony Dannecker can't do them for me any more!Anyway, I bought my first stainless steel harp, a low D Seydel Session Steel. I like the volume and tuning but I definitely need to do some tweakingapropos of gapping, and I also need to do the Paddy retune. 
> If anyone who's had hands-on experience of tweaking  diatonic harps with steel reeds would like to pass on their experiences, I'd be very grateful
> 
> 		 	   		  






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