[Harp-L] Re: Corian combs

[Mike Fugazzi <mikefugazzi@xxxxxxxxx>]

I sometimes go from about 320 grit to 600 and then 1,000.  I also have
fine grit steel wool and this other steel wool like paper that works
well for buffing.  I guess I only use the wool stuff on reedplates,
and the 320 on reedplates too...Sanding blocks work well at times
too.  Not so much for flat sanding as rounding corners, etc.

For example, I had a high spot on a comb the other day (dymonwood) and
rather than cut a piece of sandpaper, I used the edge of a sanding
block to get it started as it was a coarser block and worked well for
the small spot.

Some of the harder combs get really scratched up with the coarse paper
and will leave gouges, so working towards 600 or finer will eliminate
that issue.  I know some buff them with rogue, cover them with
lacquer, or burnish corian and dymonwood combs as well.  I like the
buffing or burnishing when possible as it seems to "seal" the comb.  I
don't mean from moisture, but from creating dust.

Once the harp is assembled though, you have next to nothing to worry
about with the plate sides of a comb.  The trick is to then keep the
tines and perimeter from getting roughed up.  Obviously not dropping
the harp and storing it correctly help.  I have mixed thoughts on
lacquering the perimeter as it can flake off if not done really well
and in multiple stages.  I tend to like the look of a matte finish as
it is, so lacquering and then polishing to matte with something like
cork paper seems inefficient if done strictly for asthetics.  The
dymonwood combs I use from Dick Sjoeberg have a fantasic burnishing
and lacquering that not only looks good, but wears really well.  It is
very smooth and helps protect the dymonwood.

That being said, I've seen some dymonwood combs that are 15+ years old
that still look great, and didn't appear to be lacquered.

On Jan 4, 7:06 am, timbl...@xxxxxxx wrote:
> For "Flat Sanding" I use a piece of 600 or finer wet or dry paper wrapped around a flat plate.
> For the flat plate I use a 5/16 piece of glass, but any flat plate should do.
> After putting a little mineral oil or something similar on the wet/dry paper,
> I simply lay the plate on a table and lap the comb on the paper until
> satisfied with the result. No further polishing seems necessessary.
> The oil cleans up easily with a little alcohol wipe or soap and water.
> The result seems to work great and mineral oil is safe anyway.
> It doesn't take much time at all.