[Harp-L] Re: Reed replacement screws, part numbers and technique

["Doug" <mr4chnt@xxxxxxxxx>]

Great!  Thanks Joe, for the information and the tips.  I'll let you know how my experiments go.

Thanks again,

Doug H

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Joe Spiers 
  To: Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx 
  Cc: Doug 
  Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 3:45 PM
  Subject: Reed replacement screws, part numbers and technique


  In an earlier post I mistakenly said I used 1-72, that's not correct (I use 
  that size for replacing nails inside the MB's). The screws I use to fasten 
  reeds directly to the reed plate are M1.4, the same thread size as 
  Harponline uses. I started replacing reeds using the Harponline system, but 
  for convenience I now order my reed screws from QTE North America. They do 
  not look like the picture on the website, they have either a pan head or 
  binding head (not sure what the difference is) with a slotted drive. 
  Whatever it is they have a nice head that offers a large clamping surface, 
  while staying within the edges of the reed wrench. The only problem I've had 
  with these is the occasional rogue screw with an unthreaded shoulder that's 
  long enough to prevent clamping the reed down before the screw stops. Less 
  than 5 out of a 100, but watch out for them.

  Screws, part number 80086, $9.95 per 100
   https://qtena.com/stainless-steel-hinge-screws-14mm-25mm-head-p-3624.html


  Thread tap, $15.95 (3) pack, part number 56014
  https://qtena.com/plug-pack-p-4685.html

  They also have star nuts and the nutdriver if one desires to use them.

  The numbered drills needed for the 1.4 screws:

  tap hole (in the reed plate) #56 drill bit
  clearance hole (in the reed) #53 drill bit

  It's also a good idea to get a 1.4mm reamer, I got mine from Harponline. I 
  very lightly use the reamer after drilling the reed plate, to make sure the 
  hole is round (it makes for a better job of thread cutting and is easier on 
  the tap). After all the drilling and tapping, I lightly chamfer the holes 
  with a countersink (got mine from McMaster Carr) to make sure there's no 
  burrs distancing the reed from the plate. You'll also need some pin vises to 
  hold the tap, reamer, and countersink. I use a drill press for drilling 
  operations, for straight holes. Oh yeah you'll need a little flat 
  screwdriver from an eyeglass kit.

  I snug the reed down and grind off the excess length protruding from the 
  other side with a dremel cutting disc. Then I view the reed slots over a 
  light box, while centering the reed with one hand and tightening the screw 
  with the other. Double check your work for reed tightness and centering, and 
  set the gap.

  As I said before, I've had ZERO issues with thread failure using this 
  method. I think Kinya Pollard may do it the same way, possibly with 0-80 
  screws though. However I have had problems with 00-90 hardware stripping 
  using the nut/bolt method, plus the lack of 3 hands to tighten everything 
  while centering the reed.

  Good luck-
  Joe Spiers
  http://www.spiersharmonicas.com 



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