[Harp-L] Reed replacement screws, part numbers and technique

["Joe Spiers" <joemopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

In an earlier post I mistakenly said I used 1-72, that's not correct (I use 
that size for replacing nails inside the MB's). The screws I use to fasten 
reeds directly to the reed plate are M1.4, the same thread size as 
Harponline uses. I started replacing reeds using the Harponline system, but 
for convenience I now order my reed screws from QTE North America. They do 
not look like the picture on the website, they have either a pan head or 
binding head (not sure what the difference is) with a slotted drive. 
Whatever it is they have a nice head that offers a large clamping surface, 
while staying within the edges of the reed wrench. The only problem I've had 
with these is the occasional rogue screw with an unthreaded shoulder that's 
long enough to prevent clamping the reed down before the screw stops. Less 
than 5 out of a 100, but watch out for them.

Screws, part number 80086, $9.95 per 100
https://qtena.com/stainless-steel-hinge-screws-14mm-25mm-head-p-3624.html


Thread tap, $15.95 (3) pack, part number 56014
https://qtena.com/plug-pack-p-4685.html

They also have star nuts and the nutdriver if one desires to use them.

The numbered drills needed for the 1.4 screws:

tap hole (in the reed plate) #56 drill bit
clearance hole (in the reed) #53 drill bit

It's also a good idea to get a 1.4mm reamer, I got mine from Harponline. I 
very lightly use the reamer after drilling the reed plate, to make sure the 
hole is round (it makes for a better job of thread cutting and is easier on 
the tap). After all the drilling and tapping, I lightly chamfer the holes 
with a countersink (got mine from McMaster Carr) to make sure there's no 
burrs distancing the reed from the plate. You'll also need some pin vises to 
hold the tap, reamer, and countersink. I use a drill press for drilling 
operations, for straight holes. Oh yeah you'll need a little flat 
screwdriver from an eyeglass kit.

I snug the reed down and grind off the excess length protruding from the 
other side with a dremel cutting disc. Then I view the reed slots over a 
light box, while centering the reed with one hand and tightening the screw 
with the other. Double check your work for reed tightness and centering, and 
set the gap.

As I said before, I've had ZERO issues with thread failure using this 
method. I think Kinya Pollard may do it the same way, possibly with 0-80 
screws though. However I have had problems with 00-90 hardware stripping 
using the nut/bolt method, plus the lack of 3 hands to tighten everything 
while centering the reed.

Good luck-
Joe Spiers
http://www.spiersharmonicas.com