Re: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws
Vern -
So you're making the screw protrude through the reedplate and then cutting off the head on the other side?
Have you investigated using threaded rods instead of screws? ANy perceived advantage or disadvantage?
Winslow
Winslow Yerxa
Author, Harmonica For Dummies ISBN 978-0-470-33729-5
--- On Fri, 10/10/08, Vern Smith <jevern@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> From: Vern Smith <jevern@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws
> To: "Harvey Berman" <cscharp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, October 10, 2008, 12:18 AM
> I don't mess with 00-90 nuts and flat-head screws. I
> use 0-80 screws
> threaded into the reedplate. I claim that the following is
> the best way to
> replace reeds.
>
> 1. Drill the reedplate through the existing
> "rivet" hole with a 3/64" drill,
> (tap drill for 0-80.)
> 2. Tap the hole 0-80. You can drive an 0-80 tap with a pin
> vise.
> 3. Drill the hole in the reed #52, clearance for an 0-80
> screw.
> 4. Just screw the reed onto the plate with the screw head
> above the reed
> base.
> 5. With a Dremel abrasive wheel, cut & grind off any
> excess screw length on
> the back side of the plate.
> 6. When you get it playing sweetly, put a tiny drop of
> instant glue on the
> base of the reed & screw head on the side opposite the
> reed. Be careful NOT
> to use so much that it flows into the slot! I use a
> toothpick to apply the
> glue, not the spout on the glue tube.
>
> Frequently, one will find (as in your case) that the screw
> doesn't exactly
> center the reed in the slot. In this case, use a needle
> file and "stretch"
> the hole in the reed so it can align with the slot. I made
> a little vise to
> hold the reed while I drill and file in its hole.
>
> Using the above method, if you ruin a part, it is more
> likely to be the
> cheaper reed than the more expensive plate. It is easier
> and cheaper to
> find 0-80 screws than it is to find the 00-90 flat-head
> screws and nuts.
> It takes one fewer hands when you are not dealing with a
> nut. You can get
> everything you need at MicroMark or McMaster Carr.
> Although you may have to screw around with it (literally)
> longer than you
> would like, you will eventually get there. If you spoil
> something, it will
> more likely be the reed than the plate.
>
> Different long splices for different captains!
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Vern
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harvey Berman"
> <cscharp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 11:07 PM
> Subject: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws
>
>
> Thanks for the tip for breaking the weld with a reed
> wrench. I partially
> drilled, and then punched the rest of it. That part came
> out OK, though
> your way would be easier. My problem is that the hole is
> not centered in
> the slot. It is offset .0045 in. to the right. It looks
> like all the welds
> on my Suzuki are done the same way. I do not understand
> why they did that.
> You are right about the Honda Reed, and that is what I did.
> I shaved it to
> a beautiful fit in the slot, but is was offset.
>
> Smo Joe says to walk the reed with a punch. I will try
> that with a scrap
> plate. The way it is now, I have a .006 inch gap on the
> left side of the
> reed. Since I like to have a clearance of .0015 I have to
> either shave or
> walk the reed over .045 or shave a bigger reed that amount.
>
> As for the 00-90 screw question, the ones I have found are
> rather expensive.
> Smallparts .com wants $15 for a pack of ten. I use 0-80,
> which I get from
> Fastener Express (www.fastener-express.com). They are only
> $3.00 for 100
> screws. They do have the 00-90 brass nuts which are $6.30
> for 50. I like
> the 0-80 screws better than the 00-90 anyway. I drill and
> tap the reed
> plate, and screw the reed in from the front and do not use
> a nut. The 0-80s
> are much easier to work with, and the nice taper centers
> the reed nicely.
> If the reed hole or plate hole is slightly off center, then
> I put the screw
> in from the back, and use a 0-80 nut. It is a little big,
> but it works ok.
>
> Harvey Berman
>
> Brendan Power wrote:
>
> The way to proceed is to first remove the old reed with a
> reed wrench.
> Simply twist the wrench to the side and the weld will break
> off. Clean
> up the place where it sat on the reed.
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