Re: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws

"Vern Smith" <jevern@xxxxxxx> · Fri, 10 Oct 2008 00:18:20 -0700

I don't mess with 00-90 nuts and flat-head screws.  I use  0-80 screws 
threaded into the reedplate. I claim that the following is the best way to 
replace reeds.
1. Drill the reedplate through the existing "rivet" hole with a 3/64" drill, 
(tap drill for 0-80.)

2. Tap the hole 0-80.  You can drive an 0-80 tap with a pin vise.

3. Drill the hole in the reed #52, clearance for an 0-80 screw.

4. Just screw the reed onto the plate with the screw head above the reed 
base.

5. With a Dremel abrasive wheel, cut & grind off any excess screw length on 
the back side of the plate.

6. When you get it playing sweetly, put a tiny drop of instant glue on the 
base of the reed & screw head on the side opposite the reed.  Be careful NOT 
to use so much that it flows into the slot!  I use a toothpick to apply the 
glue, not the spout on the glue tube.
Frequently, one will find (as in your case) that the screw doesn't exactly 
center the reed in the slot. In this case, use a needle file and "stretch" 
the hole in the reed so it can align with the slot.  I made a little vise to 
hold the reed while I drill and file in its hole.
Using the above method, if you ruin a part, it is more likely to be the 
cheaper reed than the more expensive plate.  It is easier and cheaper to 
find 0-80 screws than it is to find the 00-90 flat-head screws and nuts. 
It takes one fewer hands when you are not dealing with a nut.   You can get 
everything you need at MicroMark or McMaster Carr.

Although you may have to screw around with it (literally) longer than you 
would like, you will eventually get there.  If you spoil something, it will 
more likely be the reed than the plate.
Different long splices for different captains!
Hope this helps.
Vern
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harvey Berman" <cscharp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>

Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 11:07 PM

Subject: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed/00-90 screws

Thanks for the tip for breaking the weld with a reed wrench.  I partially 
drilled, and then punched the rest of it.  That part came out OK, though 
your way would be easier.  My problem is that the hole is not centered in 
the slot.  It is offset .0045 in. to the right.  It looks like all the welds 
on my Suzuki are done the same way.  I do not understand why they did that. 
You are right about the Honda Reed, and that is what I did.  I shaved it to 
a beautiful fit in the slot, but is was offset.
Smo Joe says to walk the reed with a punch.  I will try that with a scrap 
plate.  The way it is now, I have a .006 inch gap on the left side of the 
reed.  Since I like to have a clearance of .0015 I have to either shave or 
walk the reed over .045 or shave a bigger reed that amount.
As for the 00-90 screw question, the ones I have found are rather expensive. 
Smallparts .com wants $15 for a pack of ten.  I use 0-80, which I get from 
Fastener Express (www.fastener-express.com). They are only $3.00  for 100 
screws.  They do have the 00-90 brass nuts which are $6.30 for 50.  I like 
the 0-80 screws better than the 00-90 anyway.  I drill and tap the reed 
plate, and screw the reed in from the front and do not use a nut.  The 0-80s 
are much easier to work with, and the nice taper centers the reed nicely. 
If the reed hole or plate hole is slightly off center, then I put the screw 
in from the back, and use a 0-80 nut.  It is a little big, but it works ok.
Harvey Berman
Brendan Power wrote:
The way to proceed is to first remove the old reed with a reed wrench.

Simply twist the wrench to the side and the weld will break off. Clean

up the place where it sat on the reed.

_______________________________________________

Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org

Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx

http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l 