Re: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed - and good source for 00-90 screws

[Winslow Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx>]

it'd be great to see close-up of this process. Video would be even better.

I had a supply of the 00-90 flat-head (countersinkable) screws that Farrell used to sell, but I'm running out and I haven't found any that are nearly as good - the heads tend to be too large in diameter for convenient use.

Does anyone know of a good source?

Winslow Yerxa
Author, Harmonica For Dummies ISBN 978-0-470-33729-5


--- On Thu, 10/9/08, Brendan Power <bren@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Brendan Power <bren@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Harp-L] RE: Suzuki Welded Reed
> To: "Harp-L" <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 4:26 PM
> Harvey wrote, regarding Suzuki welded reeds: "Has
> anyone been successful
> in transplanting a reed in one? I suppose I am either going
> to have to
> use a wider reed, and start shaving the edges, or just
> scrap the harp,
> since I cannot even use it for spare parts."
>  
> The way to proceed is to first remove the old reed with a
> reed wrench.
> Simply twist the wrench to the side and the weld will break
> off. Clean
> up the place where it sat on the reedplate.
>  
> If you are replacing with another brand of reed, then yes,
> you have to
> make sure it is the same width. If it is the lower 6 holes
> of a
> diatonic, Hohner reeds are a miniscule wider, so you do
> have to shave
> the sides a tad. Once the replacement reed is just the
> right width,
> secure it in the slot by placing some thin paper in the
> slot (tissue
> paper is fine) and pressing the reed down on it. The reed
> will sink into
> the slot surrounded on  the sides and end with a thin layer
> of tissue
> paper. This will centre and hold the reed. 
>  
> Then (assuming the replacement reed is a Hohner, with a
> hole in the reed
> pad for the rivet), drill through the rivet hole and the
> reedplate
> below. This will line everything up. For the screws I use
> (from Farrell)
> , a 1mm hole is perfect. Then drill a slightly larger hole
> in the reed
> pad, and attach with either screw and nut or self-tapping
> screw into the
> reedplate. 
>  
> Because the tissue paper is holding everything firm and
> centred through
> the process, the reed should play as soon as it is removed,
> though you
> will have to do fine tuning etc.
>  
> Suzuki do make some very ingenious reed-replacement tools
> using punches,
> but they are not widely available. The above procedure is
> possible for
> anyone.
> 
> Brendan Power
> WEBSITE:  <http://www.brendan-power.com/>
> http://www.brendan-power.com 
> YOUTUBE:  <http://www.youtube.com/BrendanPowerMusic>
> http://www.youtube.com/BrendanPowerMusic
> 
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