Re: [Harp-L] Re: Soaking harps, Ultrasuede

["Rick Dempster" <rick.dempster@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

On the contrary Joe;
                                  Please send me the remaining 999,992.
Post armageddon, while the rest of us (if any) are reduced to making pan
pipes out of mutated bamboo (if there is any still growing) Joe or one
of his genetic or cultural descendents will be inhabiting the
scrap-heaps of the ruined cities producing mouth-organs from things like
old razor blades, safety pins, paper clips, shoe-nails and lord-knows
what else. You might be a bit hard pressed with the Elmers though.

'On ya cobber!

RD

>>> Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx> 20/07/2007 7:16:12 >>>

On Jul 19, 2007, at 4:26 PM, Tom Baehr wrote:
>
> One thing you might try, Vern is something I read somewhere else.  
> On the free end of the valve, put a little piece of micropore as a  
> weight to keep it from lifting off when it's supposed to be down.  
> Worth a try?
>
> Tom
> On Jul 19, 2007, at 3:00 PM, Vern Smith wrote:

The weight thingy doesn't work too well from my experience. If you  
set the harp down with the numbers UP, the valves on the underneath  
side of the top plate and the bottom of the bottom plate will droop  
from the weight (I used nail polish).

Now if you set the harp down with the numbers pointing DOWN, the  
valves on the underneath side of the top plate and the bottom of the  
bottom plate will droop (presumably also from the weight).

The best method (I have found) is to use a whisker on the valve. It  
is (basically) same as adding another layer of valve material (as a  
backup..or spring..if you will). Originally cat whiskers, I switched  
to paint brush bristles. There's a French name for these (Rick Epping 

would remember) and I got the idea from working on accordions.

As for the sticking problem, plastic is slick and when moist will  
stick to other slick surfaces. Take a small piece of plastic, wet it, 

and place it on a window. It will stay there till dry and drop off  
without the presence of saliva.

With saliva, (which is like a thin Elmer's glue), the plastic will  
stay until those women from the British TV show 'How Clean is Your  
House' show up and remove it.

Ergo: untra suede is a pretty good valve material, because reed  
plates are slick, plastic wind savers are slick (and slick GOES to  
slick). Ultra suede is not slick, and I like it.

When you're a kid and don't know any other harp players and you don't 

have all the things we have these days at your disposal (Nor money),  
you make do with what you have. This doesn't mean that some of these  
old urban legends aren't still valid today. Things like:

1... Tiny nails used to place the 'taps' on women's spike heel shoes  
as reed plate fasteners.
2... #2 chromed safety pins (preferably 'quilter's' pins), as slide  
springs. Why? chrome is better than cadmium plating.
3... Tiny nails from the hobby shop used in making ship models as  
reed plate & cover fasteners.
4... Paper clips made into drift pins to attach reeds.
5... Razor blades for reeds.
6... Sealing combs with Vick's Vapo Rub & Noxema (or Crisco)
7... Thickened nail polish for attaching wind savers
8... Tape under cover plates to quell harshness.

I have a million of em, but I don't want to bore anyone further.

smokey-joe 
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