Re: [Harp-L] Re: Soaking harps
- To: Vern Smith <jevern@xxxxxxx>, Snaruhn@xxxxxxx, harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Re: Soaking harps
- From: Winslow Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:30:45 -0700 (PDT)
- Cc:
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- In-reply-to: <000801c7c9df$72122430$6401a8c0@user292e480637>
Vern -
Ultrasuede comes in several thicknesses. Can you characterize the
thickness (and any other selectable and significant attributes) of the
material you have successfully used to make valves?
Winslow
--- Vern Smith <jevern@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Snaruhn@xxxxxxx>
> To: <harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 3:49 PM
> Subject: [Harp-L] Re: Soaking harps
>
>
>
> > To avoid condensation on the reeds the harp has to be warmed up
> to body temperature and that´s not possible. I doubt that
> R. Bonfiglio achieves this temperature with his electric blanket.
> But even when a harp has been carried in the pocket for hours
> the first draws of cold atmospheric air balance the warming
> immediately.
>
> You are correct that warming does not avoid condensation entirely.
> It does
> reduce the condensation that occurs when you first blow into a cold
> harp.
>
> The valve sticking can only be avoided or reduced by
> scratching the reed plate near the slots as Vern has
> repeatedly described and by using one-ply valves of a relative
> small elasticity instead of these "paper tigers" Hohner or other
> factories aren´t able or not willing to change them for a working
> alternative.
>
> I have had success from waxing the reedplates under the valves and by
> using
> Ultrasuede (artificial leather) valves.
>
> Vern
>
>
>
>
>
> Siegfried
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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