Re: [Harp-L] Re: Soaking harps, Ultrasuede

["Rick Dempster" <rick.dempster@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Joe;
       Are you Columbians (and that constitutes at least 3/4 of the
list I imagine) aware that unlike almost everything else originanting in
the US (even if most of it is now made in Taiwan) "Elmer's' glue" is not
a universally understood brand-name-turned-generic  like 'biro',
'band-aid', Hoover, Sonny Boy or LW etc.
      (This stuff can get you in trouble; asking for 'Durex' in
Australia and Britain will yield two  totally different products, and
perhaps, depending on the situation, responses)
      What is 'Elmer's' glue excactly? generically, chemically etc- and
Joe, I know that you can, and will tell me!
      Now I'm just going to nip down to the tearoom and have a
four'n'twenty and rosella washed down a cup of Bushells.
      So there!
RD

>>> Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx> 20/07/2007 7:16:12 >>>

On Jul 19, 2007, at 4:26 PM, Tom Baehr wrote:
>
> One thing you might try, Vern is something I read somewhere else.  
> On the free end of the valve, put a little piece of micropore as a  
> weight to keep it from lifting off when it's supposed to be down.  
> Worth a try?
>
> Tom
> On Jul 19, 2007, at 3:00 PM, Vern Smith wrote:

The weight thingy doesn't work too well from my experience. If you  
set the harp down with the numbers UP, the valves on the underneath  
side of the top plate and the bottom of the bottom plate will droop  
from the weight (I used nail polish).

Now if you set the harp down with the numbers pointing DOWN, the  
valves on the underneath side of the top plate and the bottom of the  
bottom plate will droop (presumably also from the weight).

The best method (I have found) is to use a whisker on the valve. It  
is (basically) same as adding another layer of valve material (as a  
backup..or spring..if you will). Originally cat whiskers, I switched  
to paint brush bristles. There's a French name for these (Rick Epping 

would remember) and I got the idea from working on accordions.

As for the sticking problem, plastic is slick and when moist will  
stick to other slick surfaces. Take a small piece of plastic, wet it, 

and place it on a window. It will stay there till dry and drop off  
without the presence of saliva.

With saliva, (which is like a thin Elmer's glue), the plastic will  
stay until those women from the British TV show 'How Clean is Your  
House' show up and remove it.

Ergo: untra suede is a pretty good valve material, because reed  
plates are slick, plastic wind savers are slick (and slick GOES to  
slick). Ultra suede is not slick, and I like it.

When you're a kid and don't know any other harp players and you don't 

have all the things we have these days at your disposal (Nor money),  
you make do with what you have. This doesn't mean that some of these  
old urban legends aren't still valid today. Things like:

1... Tiny nails used to place the 'taps' on women's spike heel shoes  
as reed plate fasteners.
2... #2 chromed safety pins (preferably 'quilter's' pins), as slide  
springs. Why? chrome is better than cadmium plating.
3... Tiny nails from the hobby shop used in making ship models as  
reed plate & cover fasteners.
4... Paper clips made into drift pins to attach reeds.
5... Razor blades for reeds.
6... Sealing combs with Vick's Vapo Rub & Noxema (or Crisco)
7... Thickened nail polish for attaching wind savers
8... Tape under cover plates to quell harshness.

I have a million of em, but I don't want to bore anyone further.

smokey-joe 
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