Re: [Harp-L] Paddy Richter
It's been largely addressed now, but I figured I would still send this
which I forgot to post the other day, since I'm still curious about what
answers there might be to my questions.
Larry Pratt queried:
I use to know this, but didn't write it down, and now its evaporated
from my brain. The Paddy Richter tuning has the 3 hole blow raised. I
don't know if its a half-step or a whole step.
A whole step. Thus, on a 'C' harp, you're raising the 3rd hole blow G to
an A.
You can make one of these easily with a pair of Lee Oskar harps. I
think the bottom (draw) plate is a standard Richter diatonic plate. I
think you replace the top (blow) plate with a top plate from a Melody
Maker. Is this right? Is it a MM?
I think so. At first, I thought you were confusing it with that
discussion a few years back about building a Dorian Minor harp by
combining the blow reedplate from a major tuned harp and the draw
reedplate from the corresponding natural minor harp [labeled in 2nd, or
crossharp, position.] But, after checking, yes, to produce a Paddy
Richter harp, the MM has the 3rd hole note already raised to whole step
on the blow reedplate, and you simply install that on a comb with a
regular major draw reedplate attached.
What are the two Lee Oskar reed plates used? I also remember
that for a given key you have to get the right LO plates. LO
names their "other than standard richter tuned" harps in second
position, a fifh from the natural note. Thus,to make a Paddy
Richter in A, you would use a standard diatonic A for the draw
plate. The other plate would be marked as an E.
That's the way I understand it. That would give you F# for the 3rd hole
blow note. And, as you imply, you need to consider the 'cross-harp'
labeling of the Melody Maker, made with the intention of using it to play
melodies in second position. [An understandable approach for naming harp
keys, but not one I ever considered reasonable, due to the unnecessary
confusion it tends to cause.]
Then, Steve Shaw added this interesting comment:
>Paddy is the only tuning I use for 10-hole harps, but I achieve
>it by tuning up the 2-draw rather than the 3-blow. I really have
>no other good reason for doing it other than the fact that I've
>always done it and I'm used to it. I don't need the lost draw
>chord as I play single notes nearly all the time.
Naturally makes one start to wonder which method might work best. [Did
for me, anyway!] Both remove at least one useful chord... which loss is
greater? Changing the 3rd hole blow adds a new blow note, removes the
lowest of 3 same pitch notes, and maintains an ascending scale and
familiar note/breath pattern. Is having that new blow note as beneficial
as having a third same pitch draw note in the lower octave, despite
losing the sole fifth note [2 draw] among draw notes, plus disrupting the
note/breath pattern? [2 draw becomes higher than 3 blow.]
The raised 3 blow seems the most logical solution to me, but some of the
benefits in Steve's method have me wondering if his might work better in
many ways.
>You don't have to take the plates off to do it my way!
Also favorable! :)
Has anyone compared these options for ease of play and useful note
access? I hope so... please don't make me have make time to investigate
this or we'll NEVER know!! ;)
Time's a-wastin'...
Cheers!
Bobbie
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