Re: [Harp-L] 64 Chromonica

[michael harp <diachrome@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

on 5/10/05 9:14 AM, Aalprice@xxxxxxx at Aalprice@xxxxxxx wrote:

> Hi all.  I was recently given an old 64 Chromonica by a local taxi  driver.
> When i went to dismantle it to clean it i was surprised to  find it had
> leather valves instead  of the usual plastic ones.    The harp comes in a faux
> walnut box with a peach coloured padded interior....by  the way the harp has a
> wooden body.    I want to try and restore  it.   The reeds all seem to be
> ok,slider is ok and all the relevent  bits and bobs are there.   What i could
> do with 
> from the very  knowledgable bunch who frequent harp-l is any tips or indeed
> any info in general  about this harp...when manufactured and how do i restore
> the leather  valves?

Hi Al,
Don't waste your time trying to restore the leather valves unless you have a
few months with nothing to do. I asked Rick Epping how to fix them a few
years ago. It's a very time consuming task. Whether or not the leather
valves are in good condition I would replace them anyway. Unlike Mylar or
Teflon valves leather valves are organic which means they are more difficult
to sanitize from one owner to the next.

,  I have been feeding them with minute amounts of olive
> oil 
> with some success......

You are adding more organic material to something that is organic. If they
are mounted to the reed plate don't expect them to lift when you blow. The
olive oil will start to get tacky as it breaks down. You may also find a lab
experiment growing on the leather in due time. The harmonica will also take
on a rancid odor when you inhale.


 Or do i take all the leather valves out and put in
> a set of the plastic ones?

now you're on the right track.

  OH...What would you fix them on with if i
> removed them?    Any help in this matter would be greatly  appreciated,
> Cheers, Al.

Vern recommended Pliobond. I use to use that but too many customer
complained about the lingering fumes. The outside valves will dry faster
then the inside. That is where the vapors will dissipate the slowest.
Farrell sells Hohner valve glue. It dries fast and the odor dissipates in a
few hours. If you do use Pliobond leave the reedplates off for a few days so
it cures properly.

Place a drop of acetone on the valve and wait a few seconds. The valve
should remove with most of the glue. Make certain all the glue is removed
before placing new valves. After you remove all the valves, thoroughly wash
the reed plates to remove the acetone.

good luck,
mike