[Harp-L] Arbor press for rivets?

[Joseph Leone]

I did say spire point, and I did say push the rivet HALF way out and then pry the reed the rest of the way. Nit-picking excused….lolol
I actually use a sewing machine needle snapped off about 1/16th. inch (.0625) from where it flares into the shank that fits into the machine. 
Yes it is true that the tools I use are crude compared to dedicated tools. But they work and they cost nothing. The wife breaks needles like
some cooks break spaghetti. (Btw, never break spaghetti. Make it hard to twirl on your fork.)  :)

If you look at your watch band tool you may see a similarity of the push pins used to a clipped shortened sewing machine needle. 

smo-joe 

> On Sep 26, 2018, at 7:07 PM, Vern <jevern at xxxxx> wrote:
> 
> Admittedly nit-picking…
> 
> Rivets and their holes in the plate are about .040” in dia.   Thus, a 1/16” punch (.0625”) is much too fat. You want a punch that is as fat as possible for strength but will pass through the hole without damaging it.  
> 
> That is why I suggested .035” or the size of a #64 drill shank.
> 
> To avoid pin buckling, it should be as short as possible…the .040” thickness of the plate is all the length that you need.
> 
> Buckling load is inversely proportional to column length squared.  According to Euler’s famous formula, halving the length gives four times the load capability of the punch pin.  For more than you want to know about buckling, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckling <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckling>.
> 
> Vern
>   
>>> On Sep 25, 2018, at 3:59 PM, Joseph Leone <3N037 at xxxxx <mailto:3N037 at xxxxx>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ……..You would need a pin about 1/16th.” in dia with a spire point. ……..