[Harp-L] Steel reeds

[Joseph Leone]

I do the same. Scrapers rely on pressure. You have to apply anywhere from inch ounces to foot pounds to get the scraper (which should have a sharp edge like a cabinet scraper) to shave the reed.
Too much pressure is deleterious to the reed. It can bend, warp, or belly the metal. Often causing a realignment of the grain. What you want is an ‘abrader’. Something that actually scrapes but does 
so in a multiple striking force of infinitesimally small increments. Therefore opening up the surface so that further strikes have something to work against. I am not what I would consider a technician 
but have 60 some years of working with tools. Mostly gun smithing. Conclusion? The Duke of Wail is correct. Btw back up that reed with a shim stock. Break a double edged razor blade in half and
then use both pieces. 

smojo   

> On Jun 6, 2018, at 12:20 AM, Robert Hale <robert at xxxxx> wrote:
> 
> I use the very lightest touch from a tiny dremel tapered grinding bit.
> 
> Robert Hale
> Serious Honkage in Arizona
> youtube.com/DUKEofWAIL
> DUKEofWAIL.com
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 5, 2018 at 8:25 AM, Tommy Cate <tcate at xxxxx> wrote:
> 
>> My low tuned Seydel steels are finally to the point that I need to tune
>> them. My normal reed scratcher won't make a dent in those stainless reeds.
>> Got any suggestions?