[Harp-L] Lubricant?

[Sheltraw]

In my experience improper assembly is most often the cause. I have never had a case of a sticking slider where disassembling and reassembling (sometimes as many as three tries) didn't fix the sticking problem. Most often it remains a mystery as to which facet of assembly made the difference. I mentioned two in my previous email: Cover plate edge pressing on the back plane and squished bumpers.

My experience is with the Hohner 260, Seydel Deluxe, and Saxony. Each has its own assembly peculiarities. My CX12 never gives me slider problems but I don't like the slider click.

Daniel

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 28, 2016, at 7:46 AM, Joseph Leone <3n037 at xxxxx> wrote:
> 
> Same thing as using ‘Dykem’ on mating surfaces in machine shops. Same as matching ‘faying’ surfaces in boat building. 
> 
> smo-joe (4M co.  /  Mars machine metallurgy & manufacturing, P.O. box 777, Mars., Pa.)
> 
>> On Nov 28, 2016, at 12:41 AM, Vern <jevern at xxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>> What then is most often the cause?  Bent/damaged parts that you are unable to fix?
>> I have never had  a case where inking the parts failed to reveal the cause.  
>> 
>> Vern
>> 
>>> On Nov 27, 2016, at 4:58 PM, Sheltraw <macaroni9999 at xxxxx> wrote:
>>> 
>>> In my experience smoothing out the rough spots helps make a properly assembled slider work better but often isn't the reason for slide binding . 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Nov 27, 2016, at 12:08 PM, Vern <jevern at xxxxx> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> This is what I do to the "slide that binds":
>>>> 
>>>> - Disassemble the slide.
>>>> - Sight along the slide for bends.  A bent slide is hopeless and can only be replaced.
>>>> - Coat the slide and the surfaces that touch it with ink from a black wick pen.
>>>> - Reassemble the slide and push it several times.
>>>> - Disassemble again and observe surfaces.  The surfaces opposite high points will show inkless streaks.
>>>> - Polish down the high points.  Crocus cloth or 600 sandpaper works. I use a Shofu Brownie wheel with a very light touch.
>>>> - Remove the ink with alcohol or acetone.
>>>> - Apply a very thin coat of Johnson’s Paste Floor wax and polish. It should be invisible but make water bead on the surface.
>>>> - Reassemble 
>>>> 
>>>> You may wish to repeat the inking and polishing steps more than once.
>>>> 
>>>> The above procedure should work for small bumps and burrs but not for a bent slide. 
>>>> 
>>>> Vern
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Nov 26, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Sheltraw <macaroni9999 at xxxxx> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I think that whether one should use lubricant and which lubricant depends upon how much friction you have in your slider system and if the usual methods to eliminate the friction have not yielded the results you want. If you have tried disassembling and cleaning the slider system and you still think there is too much friction then lubricant can be very helpful. I will use some of Hohner's silicone lubricant when cleaning and proper assembly just isn't working well enough.
>>>>> 
>>>>> But before using lubricant I would exhaust all other methods of decreasing slider friction. Filing the burrs off the edges of the slide holes and back/front plane holes can be helpful. Frequent cleaning is also helpful. You don't always have to disassemble the slider system to clean it. Others here have mentioned methods to clean without disassembly. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> You should also check that the bumpers are not be squished between the mouthpiece and slider system thereby exerting a large normal force on the slider surface. Also make sure that the cover plates are not pressing against the slider system because that will often create large normal force on the slider as well.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Daniel 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Nov 25, 2016, at 12:44 PM, Rich Eisenberg <catketch2 at xxxxx> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What is the best lubricant for a sticky chromatic button?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
>> 
>