Re: [Harp-L] tuning stainless steel reeds

[Winslow Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx>]

I always wedge a piece of paper between the reed and the reedplate (or between the reed and the metal shim that's wedged between the reed and the reedplate. Can't solder metal to paper very well.

However, I wonder if you used rosin-core solder (the rosin beign the flux that all solder needs to adhere to a surface). It's preferable to use solid solder with no flux. Apply flux separately with a toothpick to the specific area on the reed where you want the solder to adhere. You can also use a soft pencil to mark off the boundary of where you want the flux to flow - when heated, like the solder it gets runny.


 
Winslow Yerxa
Author, Harmonica For Dummies, ISBN 978-0-470-33729-5
            Harmonica Basics For Dummies, ASIN B005KIYPFS
            Blues Harmonica For Dummies, ISBN 978-1-1182-5269-7
Resident Harmonica Expert, bluesharmonica.com
Instructor, Jazzschool for Music Study and Performance


________________________________
 From: "captron100@xxxxxxx" <captron100@xxxxxxx>
To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 10:21 AM
Subject: [Harp-L] tuning stainless steel reeds
 

Winslow Yerxa wrote:You may find it advantageous to solder a piece of brass to the end of the reed, as it's heavier than solder and can deliver more weight in less space.snip.....  The first lesson I learned in dealing with this is that you need acid flux and lead-free silver bearing solder (and therefore high temperatures) when you solder stainless steel.

The only time I ever tried to tune with solder, the solder ran into the reed slot and fused the reed inside the reed slot.  I wasn't able to remove it and chalked it up to experience (or lack of).  How do u keep the solder from running off the reed?
ron