Re: [Harp-L] Emboss gone wrong.

[Mike Fugazzi <mikefugazzi@xxxxxxxxx>]

If you keep the tool lubed with mineral oil, you'll have much less burring. 
 When you get burrs, the advice of using a shim - try .002" - is very 
sound.  If you use mineral oil and don't press too hard, you should almost 
never have an issue.  When you're done, wash the harp.  I use an Ultrasonic 
cleaner with water and lemon juice.  This way, you will remove any brass 
dust, help debur the slots of any loose brass, and get the mineral oil off.

Mineral oil is a natural laxative.  Meaning, you can ingest it no problem, 
but if you ingest too much, make sure your work area is near a bathroom.

Mike
http://www.mikefugazzi.com/customharps

On Monday, October 22, 2012 7:23:39 PM UTC-5, Matthew Smart wrote:
>
> The first thing you need is a lightbox. It allows you to place the reeds 
> on a lighted flat surface and then you can see exactly when to stop 
> embossing! You can find these at art stores like Dick Blick around 30 
> dollars. I will do a video on this at some point. Dave Payne did a great 
> pizza box video I dont have the link. Hopefully he will post it on here 
> (he uses a pizza box to show a larger example of embossing technique). 
>
> 2nd, is to have some shim stock so you can run it along the sides of the 
> reeds and the slots and remove the burrs than can cause problems. 
>
> When  I emboss, I use these tools (mentioned above) and also constantly 
> plink to the reed to make sure it is not hitting the slot as I work. 
> Most of the work I do is on 1-6 draw reeds, some on blow reeds and some 
> on overblows. For beginners, 7 - 10 draw not necessary unless you are 
> doing overdraw setup. 
>
> For beginners, I would only recommend doing the top 2/3 of the slot and 
> not at the very base (small reward, lots of room for error going that 
> low). 
>
> You really need a good embossing tool. I use two of them that are not 
> available for resale. Dick Sjoebergs UST is helpul. I dont know what 
> tools you are using and what harps, but you can check out some of the 
> videos and tools I offer. Including a seydel all in one wrench 
> ,embossing tool, video, and reed gapper made by Sjoeberg here 
> www.harptools.com. Its called Seydel soundcheck or I call it the Seydel 
> multi-tool. Plus the video included shows you how to emboss. 
>
> Also, a penny works well or rounded socket. The key is to do it lightly, 
> newer harps dont need it much as they have improved slot tolerances 
> including hohner recently. 
>
> If you have to un-emboss, you can slide the reed over with a reed wrench 
> and gently rub some fine sandpaper in the slot. Count your strokes, 
> probably 5 on each side will do the trick. Dont do it too much or it 
> will be very leaky. You can also gently scrape with an exacto blade 
> dipped in mineral oil for smooth cutting. Again, it may not take much. 
> BUT you must have a light box or other good light source to do this kind 
> of precision work! 
>
> Im sure there many other things I will think of later, but this is off 
> the top of my head! 
>
> Good luck. 
>
> Matthew 
> hetrickharmonica.com 
>
>
> On 10/22/2012 7:37 PM, Lloyd Short wrote: 
> > I tried to emboss my reeds for the first time. Now half of them wont 
> play a 
> > note on the draw. Just a strange squeeky vibrato nnoise.  Help please :( 
> > 
>
>