[Harp-L] re:cleaning harps
- To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: [Harp-L] re:cleaning harps
- From: Michael Easton <diachrome@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 11:01:17 -0500
- In-reply-to: <201211101047.qAAAleIb017760@harp-l.com>
- References: <201211101047.qAAAleIb017760@harp-l.com>
I've used various cleaners over the years to restore customers and my
own harps.
I've found it's best not to overdo it with the cleaner.
I've been using Palmolive Pure and Clear the past 4 years on all
cleaning and restorations of chromatics.
It has no Aloe or perfume. For some reason that doesn't effect
metal cooking and eating utensils
but you can taste the perfume on harmonica parts after you clean them
using scented detergents.
One's containing aloe are bad for chromatics and can leave a sticky
film causing the valves to stick if not removed with very hot water..
Also it's a needless ingredient.
I no longer worry about heavy water marks on reed plates. I only
clean so much as the Palmolive and if needed, baking soda will allow.
What remains remains.
The only way to completely eliminate it is to use some sort of
chemical or physical abrasive. What you end up with is a plate
showing the copper layer where the water marks use to be. This can
also affect the timbre of the reed IMHO. Not from using it on the
plate but having contact with the reeds
while cleaning the plates. The reeds end up sounding dull in tone if
the chemicals used on it are too harsh.
I no longer use Naval Jelly for that reason when doing restorations on
prewars.
On Ultrasonic Cleaners
I've been using them in the lab industry for close to 40 years now.
The best non industrial UC I found is sold by Harbor Freight. It
allow for plates as large as 64's to be cleaned
It can heat the water and has a digital setting for up to several
minutes. The only downside is there is no off switch. You have to
pull the plug when you are finished using it.
The thing about UC's is that they are primary used to remove polish in
the jewelry and dental profession. The use of caustic cleaners
containing acid are only used in specialized circumstances and
generally used only in UC's that are made to handle those solutions.
Gold, silver and Titanium are 3 metals that won't be affected by
caustic cleaners. Brass and tin are not one of them.
UC's won't remove water marks or rust. It will just clean the areas
around it.
I use a fresh batch every time and just use the Palmolive liquid in it.
I reserve the use of mine for harps that are full of dried crud. It
does a good job of loosening dry spit on the plates and reeds and in
the slots where buildup can affect reed action. This is especially
true on harps that have been
embossed.
I place the parts on a plastic cutting board over a sink afterwards
and lightly use a toothbrush on them to shine the metal then rinse.
One final word. Using a toothbrush on reeds can alter the gap. A
light brush stroke perpendicular to the reed pad is good enough to
clean them. Heavy strokes across the length of the reed can cause
them to lower in the slot.
If you aren't skilled with setting your gaps I would tread lightly
across the reeds.
One final final word. Dry the parts immediately. Don't let sit to air
dry. The rivets are steel and rust will start to form around the reed
pad within 2 hours if not dried properly.
Take Care
Mike
www.harmonicarepair.com
This archive was generated by a fusion of
Pipermail 0.09 (Mailman edition) and
MHonArc 2.6.8.