Subject: Re: [Harp-l] slider troubles

[EGS1217@xxxxxxx]

Well, I had a response ready to go but my computer glitched and there it  
all went. I figured you had most of what you needed from everyone 
else--they're  the experts, not me. I also get the list in Digest form so am usually 
reading  the responses and writing back quite a bit later than most.
 
 
But my take would be to try the steel wool this time around since sandpaper 
 hasn't quite gotten you there. I'm just not fond of sandpaper with metal. 
I've  rethought the 0000 and might begin with that but if it isn't strong 
enough then  try 000 or 00 (which I find a bit too coarse but IS good for 
removing rust  from metal surfaces). This is the kind I'm talking about --not 
'cleaning pad'  steel wool. I still have some going back years --when I worked 
on furniture and  the umpteen finish coats of the pine wood ducks I made as 
gifts. I expect I'll  be able to bequeath some in my Will, it seems to last 
forever. 
 
 
_http://www.briwax-online.com/lofwool.html_ 
(http://www.briwax-online.com/lofwool.html) 
 
 
Cut a piece off with a pair of scissors (good for the scissors too - keeps  
them sharpened), hold with a bit of cut-up old rubber glove to create a  
sleeve for the steel wool (no metal splinters in your fingertips), and try a 
few  passes om the edges of each mouthpiece part. Make SURE you're holding 
each MP  part firmly and not allowing them to bend --so I'd do this with the 
piece lying  flat with the button extending off the edge of a flat surface 
while you hold it  down with the spread fingers of your other hand. Keep the 
edge you're honing  protruding just beyond the edge of the countertop or 
workspace. You could use a  couple of vicegrips to hold it in place if it's 
impossible to manage  otherwise, but don't overtighten the vicegrips either. 
You're doing this  step gently--not 'scrubbing'--don't want to indent a 
straight surface or bend  any one of these parts.
 
 
You MUST remove all metal dust/debris after this step. A tack rag works  
ok--or wash the pieces under running water with a dab of dish washing 
detergent  getting into nooks and crannies with a dedicated toothbrush, rinsing 
thoroughly.  Dry completely with a lint-free cloth and then air-dry any residual 
dampness. My  personal guess is that 'burrs' or a slightly bent MP slide 
button piece is the  culprit, OR over-tightened MP screws. IF you find that 
any of the MP parts are  even slightly askew you could possibly straighten 
them by sandwiching the entire  MP (reassembled without the screws) under some 
heavy books --again making sure  the button is off the end of the work area, 
or perhaps the experts here know a  better way to straighten them. I don't.
 
 
I also don't believe in using any product INside the mouthpiece but for  
those who do - when they say 'a dab' it's far less than what most  people 
think of as that amount. If you watch the Steve Baker videos they  demonstrate 
just how miniscule a dab actually is: just the  scarcest wisp on the tip of a 
finger so none can travel inside to your  valves. Even water (to my mind) 
can eventually create rust which causes  sticking MP parts so I don't use it.
 
 
I'd keep the chromatic spotlessly clean (sip water before and during play)  
and polish it with MAAS (followed by an Isopropyl Alcohol wipe down) --see  
if those steps alone kept the slide in optimum condition. It's what seems  
to work best for my own chromatics.
 
Elizabeth
 
PS: I've never had problems with springs except for one on my oldest 260  
which was too short (to engage the slide) as described by Jimmy Gordon  way 
back in 2005. He tinkered with it and after a lot of frustration got it  
fixed and it hasn't been a problem ever since. It's a gorgeous little instrument 
 which I carry along as a backup.
 
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 00:57:41 -0700
From: Music Cal  <macaroni9999@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] slider troubles
To:  harp-L list _harp-l@xxxxxxxxxxx (mailto:harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx) 
David,  Joe, Jon and Elizabeth

OK. I combined a number of your suggestions/tips  and did the following:

(1) Wire brushed the rough spots on the  u-channel
(2) Used 1000 grit wetordry sandpaper wrapped around a jewelers  file to
work the rough spots some more
(3) Made a last pass with crocus  cloth.

The slider works much better now. I would say that it is about 3/4  of the
way there. I have not found a good way to de-burr the slider hole yet.  Any
suggestions?

I thought I might also carefully place a drop of  silicone oil on the spring
windings as well. When I installed the new spring  a while back I I probably
used Doug Tates suggestion of pushing a thin knife  blade between the
windings to cut down on the friction in the windings so I  am not optimistic
about the silicone oil making much improvement. Just got to  find that oil.
Its around here  someplace.

MusiCal


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