Re: [Harp-L] solder on steel reeds, soldering iron

[Joseph Leone <3n037@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Depends on the work. I would use the 30.  I have a 30 and 100 watt pencil and a 360 pistol type. All Weller. I also have piezo torch, mapp gas torch. Blow torches are good for heavy work..like that file cleaning deal. I soak the files in swimming pool acid (Muriatic)..dilluted. Then I use a brass brush and turpentine. After that I file a charcoal briquette. When filing with a fine file, I sometimes use powdered sulfur. But I don't expect anyone to have that at their disposal. I use the heat sink idea when working in close proximity to something I don't want to loosen. Like fittings next to fittings, capacitors next to chips, relays next to tuners. Anywhere where the heat would undo (or harm) other work. Same methods used in jewelry making..where parts are mighty close together and a slip-up could cost you the loss of a stone down the road. 

Today I fixed a Cuttlebug embosser with a cracked frame. Last week it was several antique collectable lighters. Harmonicas are very delicate. I find them challenging. My head is off to anyone who can do good work on them. Yes, I did say head. 

smo-joe  

On May 11, 2012, at 1:19 AM, Robert Hale wrote:

> On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 9:00 PM, Joseph Leone <3n037@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Use a heat sink. An alligator clip with a chunk of metal OR a length of beaded chain around the 1/3rd mark will keep the 2/3rds you DON't want to de temper from being de tempered.
> 
> Soldering iron 15W, or 25W ?? 
> 
> Robert Hale
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