Re: [Harp-L] Blu-Tak or Silver Solder - Staying within the lines

My soldering skill is higher than the average tinkerer but my success at soldering reeds was less than satisfactory.  I remembered reading the pencil lead tips but felt I could "do it my way."  Another lesson learned.  My results were the solder ran lengthwise and tinned a couple reeds, causing them to stiffen.  The thin layer was very tenacious so now I get another project of replacing tinned reeds.  Of course I used whatever solder I found in my junk drawer and of course it was 60/40 and too large diameter.  Today I bought a spool of lead-free consisting of  "SN99.2/AG 0.3/CU 0.5"  at Radio Shack instead of the recommended Silver solder, which contained lead.  It is .022" diameter, so should dispense accurately.  The pencil lead will certainly be used this time  on the reed edges and tip and I may use an aluminum mini-clamp to shield the reed from being tinned.  

I experimented using peanut butter on my jam harps but the darned mice ate them.

Lockjaw Larry
Breathing Music sans lead Daily

 From: Vern <jevern@xxxxxxx>
To: Robert Coble <robertpcoble@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
Cc: Harp-L <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Saturday, March 3, 2012 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Blu-Tak or Silver Solder - Staying within the lines
Because I learned it here, I can't take credit for teaching Bob to use a pencil to limit the spread of solder.  It sounds like a great idea! My method was to apply paste flux with a toothpick to the area to be soldered. There is no reason you could not do both in a belt-and-suspenders mode.

The little battery-powered soldering guns are useless for most soldering but work very well to apply solder to reeds. They are small, light, easily manipulated, and don't have to heat up.  

Easton started me using Shofu Brownies, my preferred method of tuning.



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