[Harp-L] Re: pros/cons rivets/screws

[Robert Coble <robertpcoble@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

<quote>
OK. Now I am OK. Now I am ready to hear your opinions about rivets vs 
screws for reed replacement. Which do you think is the better method 
and why?

Also, does the Seydel rivet removal tool work well for Hohner instruments?

It appears to me that one nice thing about using screws is (provided that
the Seydel rivet removal tool works for Hohner harps) that one can get
everything one needs to do the job in Seydel's "basic tool kit". Is this
true?

When one uses the rivet replacement method does one have to smooth the
edges of the rivet hole prior to inserting the new rivet? The reason for
my question is that I think that I may have heard that setting the rivet
causes the edges of the hole to stick up a bit.

 ready to hear your opinions about rivets vs screws for reed
replacement. Which do you think is the better method and why?

Also, does the Seydel rivet removal tool work well for Hohner instruments?

It appears to me that one nice thing about using screws is (provided that
the Seydel rivet removal tool works for Hohner harps) that one can get
everything one needs to do the job in Seydel's "basic tool kit". Is this
true?

When one uses the rivet replacement method does one have to smooth the
edges of the rivet hole prior to inserting the new rivet? The reason for
my question is that I think that I may have heard that setting the rivet
causes the edges of the hole to stick up a bit.
</quote>

I personally prefer screws over rivets. My few forays with rivets didn't go as easy as I expected.
However, I try to use rivets if the player wants the instrument to remain "stock." I do tap the
reedplates (usually) rather than use the nuts. I also use the Seydel 1.4mm reamer to open the
hole in the reed itself so that the screw goes through it without threads. This makes it much easier
to adjust the reed into the center position. It's a matter of "feel" to get just the right amount of
opening in the reed. I usually work the reamer in opposite directions (clockwise and then
counter-clockwise) while pinching the edges of the reed between two fingers. After getting the
hole large enough to take about 1/3-1/2 of the reamer shaft, I switch sides and do the same thing
until the reed is positioned about 1 inch from the reamer handle. That's usually enough to allow 
the screw to slip through without causing threads in the reed. If the screw doesn't slip through
the reed easily, I enlarge the hole a little more at a time until it does. I use a set of clamping
tweezers to hold the screw, the insert it through the reed, and into the reedplate. After getting
the screw started good, I take off the tweezers and use the flat-blade screwdriver to tighten it.
When the reed is just tight enough to keep the reed in place, I back the REED counter-clockwise
about a quarter-turn, then tighten the screw SLOWLY while holding the reedplate up to a bright
light to check the alignment in the slot. If it appears that the reed is misaligned along the axis,
I remove the screw, use the reamer to take off just a little more from the hole, and repeat the
process of putting it back on. After a sufficient number of replacements, you will get a feel for
how much it takes, and the process goes rather quickly. I made a Lee Oskar Circular Tuned "E"
harp using a E Major harp and A D set of replacement reedplates. I switched around 13 reeds
(some from blow to draw on the E reedplates, and some replacement reeds from the D reedplates).
The entire process took me about 2 hours. Usually, I can do a reed replacement and initial retune
in much less than 1/2 hour. (I'm NOT a pro or a customizer.) A final fine tuning can take several
days, allowing for reed "settling time." 

The Seydel rivet removal pliers work fine with Hohner instruments that have a "standard" rivet
head. It may be an aberration, but I found that the MeisterKlasse rivet head was a little too
large for the tiny hole in the Seydel tool. I have worked on Special 20s, Marine Bands, Golden
Melodies and Lee Oskars with no problem. I also use the Seydel toolkit as the basis for everything 
I do when repairing. I have the Lee Oskar toolkit, which is okay but not complete; it is not designed 
to do anything but tuning using files and scrapers. I really love Ricxhard Sleigh's toolkit but it also
is oriented to tuning only.

Everything needed for reed removal/replacement (EXCEPT FOR REEDS) is available in the Seydel
tookit. You will still need a chromatic tuner and some type of tool (file, sanding wand, rotary tool)
for tuning. I actually prefer a fingernail rotary tool that I found at WalMart. It has a little wheel
that is perfect for polishing off a reed to bring it into tune. It is very low torque and low speed,
and is easy to hold and it cost less than $10.00. A musician friend who works in a jewelry store
got me a free lifetime supply of polishing wheels which fit the little Walmart tool perfectly. I did
use an engraving tool that I got from Harbor Freight for about $10.00, but I like polishing into 
tune better than grinding or filing into tune. I also bought the Seydel tuning kit. I don't use the
feeler gauges at all. I used the rotary tool for tuning but having a tether to a wall socket is confining.
I use a Korg CA-30 which cost $22.00 new. I think the newer version is the CA-40. The Seydel
chromatic tuner is a Coxx CT-VU, which is comparable to the Korg CA-30 in functionality.

I like having the capability of setting the reference pitch on both of these units, because different
harp manufacturers use different reference pitches for various instruments. Both of these units
are acceptable to ME. Some customizers recommend a strobe unit, but that's a lot of overkill for
basic repairs, IMHO.

I've never smoothed the edges of the rivet hole (in the reed or reedplate), so I don't know if there 
is any significant part sticking up or not. I'll leave that to others to address.

Unless Hohner USA has changed policy, I order replacement reeds for Hohner harps from them.
If I can't get replacement reeds, I order replacement reedplates. If I can't get those, I try to
salvage a reed from an old harmonica. Sometimes, I've used Hohner reeds on other brands.
Of course, that requires some minor surgery to get the reeds to fit the slots, usually modifying
the widths, lengths and profile as needed. I would MUCH prefer to use the designated reed for
replacement rather than adapt a reed; it takes a lot less time and it was designed for it.

HTH,
Crazy Bob