[Harp-L] Re: Rivet removal tool

[Robert Coble <robertpcoble@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have (and use) both the Romel removal/replacement anvil and the Seydel removal pliers.
IMHO, for ease of use, the Seydel removal pliers cannot be beat. The pliers
have a small indentation in one jaw and a tiny pin in the other jaw. The indentation is 
fitted over the head of the rivet and then the pliers are squeezed GENTLY to pop out
the rivet. This much simpler than grinding off the rivet "tail" and then hammering out
the rivet.

There are three potential problems with the pliers solution.

(1) Sometimes the rivet is popped completely out of the reedplate AND the rivet. If you
intend to reuse the rivet, that obviously is a problem. I never reuse the old rivets. I get
new reeds and rivets directly from Hohner USA if repairing a Hohner harp. Otherwise, 
I use the Seydel screws/nuts.

(2) There is a slight limitation which I found when I started repairing other people's 
harps which were not Syedel harps. On certain harps, the rivet head is larger in diameter 
than the indentation. This makes it difficult to use the pliers (but not impossible). 
The Hohner Meisterklasse diatonic is a case in point.

(3) There is no replacement anvil in the Seydel toolkit for setting/tightening the rivets.

Seydel's supported method is to replace rivets with 1.4X3.9mm screws with corresponding 
nuts. These screws and nuts are tiny, and are very difficult to maneuver if your hands have 
"turned to stone." I suggest getting an appropriate size screw/nut holder if you have this 
problem and want to use screws/nuts.

I usually tap the hole in the reedplate, ream out the hole in the reed and screw the reed
directly to the reedplate. Some use lubricated washers to make it easier to align the
reed in the slot as the screw is tightened. (Joe Spiers, IIRC, suggested that method.
And, before I get blasted for ignorance about prior artisans suggesting this, please
understand that Joe is the LAST one that I've seen to suggest this. Thanks, Joe!)

If you do use the Romel anvil method (or the F&R Farrell anvil), make sure that when you
use the sharp pointed pin to "set" the rivet, DO NOT HAMMER IT IN! If you do, you may
lose the end of the setting pin. I know because that happened to me. You can regrind the
end if needed but it is better to avoid this problem. It takes very little force to set the rivet
tightly in the hole.

HTH,
Crazy Bob