[Harp-L] RE: reed replacement - diatonic

[Robert Coble <robertpcoble@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

There are also two more ways to attach reeds:
6. Super Glue (using soda to "set" the glue) - From Vern Smith
7. Weld the reeds on - ala Suzuki. Vern was also working on a
DIY welding tool, but I'm not sure that one is ready to release
to the general harp-repairing public.

Issues with the 5 ways listed below:
(1) Original rivet - very small, make sure it doesn't come out of 
the donor reed, a P.I.T.A. to do (for ME). I never get the dang
thing aligned properly to get it back in the reedplate hole. Maybe
I don't have the right set of tools for it. A staking tool would be
very handy (I think). If using rivets, I much prefer using new ones.
Hohner sells a rivet stick (which is several rivets in a row) for
very little. Contact Hohner USA and ask for the repair department.
Sissy Jones has now retired but still is in the business. Bill Bucko
is still there (I think). I don't know if Hohner has hired a 
replacement for Sissy or not.

(2) New rivet - Watch Richard Sleigh's video, especially jamming
the rivet into the hole while holding it with needlenose pliers.
Mount the reed on the rivet and then pound the heck out of it with
a hammer. Uh, not my cup of tea, but Richard is a highly respected
member of the Filisko Guild, so he knows how to do repairs RIGHT.
URL: http://rsleigh.com/reed-replacement-video-2/

(3) Bolt through reed and plate + nut - Requires more work reaming
out the hole through the reed and through the reedplate. I started 
out doing that (because that was the recommended practice using the
Seydel toolkit); I now just ream out the reed hole and tap the 
reedplate. I don't use the nut.

(4) Threaded bolt tapped into plate - The easiest and quickest method 
for ME. Supposedly there are issues with keeping the reed aligned in 
the slot while tightening, but I haven't had much of a problem doing 
it regularly. Having a slotted screw holder makes it much easier. I 
don't use washers either; that is supposed to make it easier to tighten 
the screw without torqueing the reed. Be careful of the amount of 
tightening; too much can distort the reed pad (base) which is NOT 
desirable. The Seydel kit contains the reamers (1.4mm) and 0-80 tap for 
the 1.4mm screws included with the kit. Yes, the Seydel kit works with 
Lee Oskar harps. I have 3 Lee Oskar Circular Tuned harps that I made 
myself. I combine a new Lee Oskar harp in a specific key with 
replacement reeds from a new set of Lee Oskar reedplates for the key 1 
whole tone below the harp key. It works for all of the reeds except one; 
hole 9 draw (I think; I don't have my chart in front of me at the moment) 
has to be tuned up by a half tone. There are 13 reeds to remove and 
replace in the appropriate holes; it takes me about 3 hours to do one 
harp. (No longer any reason to wonder why my nickname is "Crazy" Bob!)

(5) Threaded bolt into tapped plate + locked with nut - If using the 
threaded bolt tapped into the plate, I don't see the reason for the nut.
Some people ream out the reedplate hole or tap it from the opposite
side from the reed mounting side. Then a nut (plus a washer) on top
of the reed makes sense. The bolt acts as a stud and the reed slips
on and off of it easily. Again, tightening finger-tight is all that's
needed. Do NOT "gorilla" the torque! A nut holder is almost mandatory.
Surprise (not): there's one in the Seydel kit.

HTH,
Crazy Bob
 
> Reed Replacers,
>
> So far, I'm aware of these 5 ways to attach the donor reed:
> 
> 1. original rivet
> 2. new rivet
> 3. bolt through reed and plate + nut
> 4. threaded bolt tapped into plate
> 5. threaded bolt into tapped plate + locked with nut
>
> Aside from cost of tools, and number of steps, what works and why?  I
> have Lee Oskar harps. Thanks!
>
> Robert Hale