[Harp-L] reed rivet tool

[Robert Coble <robertpcoble@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

For reed replacement using nuts/bolts, I use the Seydel Toolkit. It works
quite well. It has every tool you will need for removing the reed, reaming
out the hole in the reed, and reaming out and/or tapping the reed plate. It
also comes with 50 screws and nuts. 

I got my Seydel Toolkit from Elk River Harmonica. David Payne is a nice guy 
who is very knowledgeable and helpful.

I use the 1.4mm reamer and not the 1.3mm reamer; both are in the Toolkit.
I work the reamer back and forth, holding the reed or reed plate with my
fingers. You could also use a clamp or vise. I like for the screw to go
through the reed without resistance, so I ream it out until the reed hole
is about 0.5-1.0" from the reamer handle. You'll have to experiment until
you get a feel for how much to ream. That amount also makes it fairly easy
to position the reed in the center of the slot after it is mounted.

I started out reaming out the reed plate hole and using the nuts, but found
that tapping the reed plate worked without as much trouble as messing with
those tiny nuts. I do suggest getting a set of hemostats (clamps), similar
to those shown on this page:

http://www.scissorsales.com/hemostat.html

or a flat bladed screwdriver which will clamp the screw head; those M1.4 screws
are TINY! Before I got the clamping screwdriver, I would just clamp the screw
head with the hemostat, put it through the replacement reed, and twist it until
the threads caught in the hole. I then unclamped the screw and used the flat 
bladed screwdriver to finish screwing it in. When tightening the screw, I usually
offset the reed just a little to one side just before the screw gets completely 
tight. Then the final turn puts the reed into the reed slot with just enough
pressure to hold it tight. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREW! If you do, it will 
distort the reed boss (pad) and it will not work right. After doing this a few
times, you will develop a "feel" for the right amount of torque. While tightening,
check the reed alignment in the slot by holding it up to a bright light. You should
be able to see about the same amount of light on both sides.

You'll also need either a countersink, a small jeweler's type hammer or a 
polisher of some type to make sure the holes in the reed and the reed plates
don't have any burrs sticking up; otherwise, the reed may not sit flush to the
reed plate. 

Regards,
Crazy Bob 

Robert Hale wrote:

I will be replacing reeds on LO plates.
May I have suggestions for buying the reed rivet knockout tools, and tiny
nut/bolt sets?