Re: [Harp-L] Replaceable Reeds

[Vern <jevern@xxxxxxx>]

I agree that the number of threads remaining after the countersink is vanishingly small.  However, the head takes the tension on the screw.  That means that you only need enough thread to keep the screw from falling out when the nut is off.  

Another disadvantage of the countersink is that it locates the screw even if it is a little off center.  When using screws of either method, it is important that the hole in the reed is larger than the screw threads.  That way the screw can't prevent the reed's proper alignment in the slot.  Shims such as .001" mylar or your famous cigarette paper should be used to establish the alignment while the nut or the screw is tightened.

It wasn't easy to find, but I obtained a plentiful supply of .001" mylar film. Most of the film from other sources is too thick.  I'll respond with a piece to anyone sending me a self-addressed stamped envelope. 

Vern Smith 
3424 A Calle Azul
Laguna Woods, CA 92637
  
On Oct 22, 2010, at 2:15 PM, joe leone wrote:

> 
> On Oct 22, 2010, at 4:26 PM, Vern wrote:
>>  I prefer to avoid the nuts and the countersinking operation.
>> Vern
>> 
> And I would avoid the countersinking because it takes away "THREAD bearance", and cuts the bearance for a #90 screw from approx 3 1/2 turns burried in the 'meat' of the brass to less than 2 turns. Even a shallow angled flat head mach screw will do this. Even eyeglasses have better bearance than this in the nose standoffs.
> 
> smo-joe