Re: [Harp-L] windsaver problem

[Vern <jevern@xxxxxxx>]

On Mar 14, 2010, at 5:59 AM, captron100@xxxxxxx wrote:

> 
> 
> Elizabeth wrote:
> 
> 
> Windsavers that are arcing up on a 2-3 year old chromatic are relatively simple to curve back down by VERY gently smoothing (stroking) them over a rounded surface such as an orange stick  - which is how I do it...then 'pinching' them slightly longitudinally..... The valves are two-part...the top transparent layer is a very thin plastic material designed to act as a 'spring'. 
> 
> 
> Thanks!  I almost wrote back asking what is an orange stick, but I asked my GF - she told me that it's a tool used on fingernail cuticles.

An orange stick seems a bit large to me. The upward bend at the rivet end to admit the stick partly defeats the operation.

 I have seen Cissy Jones (Hohner's repair guru) crimp valves with a wire.  Her lightning-quick hands can crimp all of the windsavers in a 12-holer in a few seconds. An un-bent paper clip is about the right diameter. Cissy places the wire between the upper and lower layers at about a quarter of the distance from the rivet to the tip and presses the upper layer with a fingertip.  Other technicians move the wire towards the tip while pressing with a fingertip.

Rick Epping designred a tool for this operation.  See http://www.angelfire.com/music/harmonica/ricksvalvetool.html

>  
>  I certainly agree that it behooves everyone to learn to maintain the iinstruments.  But this particular case the guy is an elderly gent, a beginner, and does not have a computer.
If you demonstrate how to do it, he should be able to crimp or replace valves.  

>  Question 1: Are ultra-suede valves also 2 part?
    No.

>  Question 2 - Is there any preventative maintenance that can be done that can eliminate this arching in the future?
   Transverse crimping as described above can help.  The recently- introduced longitudinal ("rooftop") crimp in the upper layer of two-part valves (e.g. in the Seydel Saxony) may prevent the two parts sticking together and prevent the valve from curling up.  Curled-up valves rattle.  Because they have fiberglass cores, properly-installed,  1- part teflon valves are immune to curling up.  Unfortunately, they are not immune to sticking and popping.


Sticking and popping is a different and more common problem.

 IMO, valve repairs are temporary and unsatisfactory half-measures.  I much prefer to replace a misbehaving valve. You can get rid of accumulated gunk, wax the reedplate, and install a more satisfactory material in "one swell foop."   

Vern