Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Breathy harp?

[EGS1217@xxxxxxx]

Winslow's answers are always so right-on!  
 
Before writing a response, I usually wait to see if he (or  SmoJoe) are 
around to give their expert opinions first -  since they're consistently the 
most logical :)
 
...that's exactly what I thought too...that perhaps you'd over-tightened  
the screws, a VERY common thing to do when one thinks of trying to keep a  
harmonica air-tight...but ends up doing the exact opposite.
 
Again, I'd add only one small change to Winslow's take on the polish: I use 
 MAAS polish (which several harp-l'ers have since verified (once they'd 
finally  tried it!) is super for harmonicas).  
The small 2oz tubes are  convenient to carry around in one's harp 'kit'.   
I originally bought  it for my silver jewelry while at a Buckeye Harmonica 
Convention years ago  then quickly progressed to using it on every part of my 
harmonicas, both  chromatic and diatonics. It gives the reed plates the 
most gorgeous  soft glow...without any harsh chemicals.
 
 MAAS is specifically made to not be as toxic as the other brass/metal  
polishes on the market. Most hardware stores or even CVS/Walgreen's carry it,  
and it's also available online. (However, in trying to find a link to post  
for you now I can't find my own tube...
 
 
_http://www.amazon.com/MAAS-Metal-Polishing-Creme-tube/dp/B0006FUKAE_ 
(http://www.amazon.com/MAAS-Metal-Polishing-Creme-tube/dp/B0006FUKAE) 
 
 
...only their new 'updated' polish with the lavender scent. Does it work as 
 well? I've no idea. I'm still searching out the original formula in the 
smaller  tube which is most convenient for my use.) 
 
The TINIEST dab works...I put it on the end of an orange stick or an eye  
makeup applicator (looks like a type of unfuzzy Q-tip)...work it around the  
reeds on the reed plate (making sure not to get any into the reed slots (or 
that  takes a bit of work to get it back out)...rub it in with the tip of a 
covered  finger ..or a very small implement such as the end of the same 
orange stick or  Q-tip applicator, then buff the same way.  Treat the cover 
plates inside  and out, then wipe them down with either Rubbing Alcohol (which 
I've begun with)  or Anywhere hard surface spray...to remove any last 
vestiges of the polish. 
 
It's been touted for use on saxophones and other musical instruments,  
etc...is a phenomenal polish - won't scratch or harm plastics/glass, and the  
best part is to not need the several re-applications: no noxious smell,  one 
wipe-down is usually sufficient. One review I've just read had the  user 
polishing out scratches on sunglasses and computer screens (something I've  
never tried).
 
The extra bonus with MAAS is that it leaves the metal protected against any 
 further moisture damage...so I usually don't do that final wipe down with  
alcohol on the underside of the cover plates, and it's certainly more than 
paid  off. My Super 64's, 280's, 260, Seydel and Hering chromatics and any 
of my  other metal covered harmonicas (although I play mostly CX-12's 
now)....have not  built up any moisture or re-rusted...even those originally 
'pre-owned' (which  are all crud free and look/smell brand new). 
 
 I will add that I've gone so far as to use it on the CX-12's bodies  too, 
recently. Since it works on plastic, why not? My theory is that the  CX-12's 
plastic covers do get brittle eventually..so I'm experimenting with  
polishing a couple of them with MAAS to see if it'll help prevent future  stress 
cracks.
 
I disagree with leaving someone else's 'crud' and germs as a seal.   Crud 
is crud for a' that (to paraphrase Rabbie Burns) ;)  Once you've  
disassembled a harmonica to clean it...the 'crud' has already been shifted from  its 
original position. Remove it completely and begin with a clean slate.  
Re-aligning as Winslow's explained and tightening 'just enough'...seem more  likely 
to be your issues. 
 
You can't imagine how many chromatic players inadvertently  over-tighten 
their mouthpieces and create major air-leakiness...it's a very  common problem.
 
 
Much good luck,
 
Elizabeth
 
"Message: 8
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 01:12:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Winslow  Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Breathy  harp?
To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx

Airtight does not mean the symptoms you  are experiencing. You are 
experiencing air leaks.

The first thing to  do would be to check and make sure that the reedplates 
are aligned correctly on  the comb. If they're a tinly bit back from the 
front edge you could be getting  leaks.

The other thing is to make sure you didn't tighten the screws too  much. 
This can cause the plates to buckle upward and break the seal with the  comb. 
Screws should be only "finger tight" - tighten until the screwdriver  
resists your fingertips.

The remaining crud is from the previous player.  You may be able to get rid 
of this with further application of Ka-Boom - though  -NOTE THAT THE 
CURRENT VERSION OF KA-BOOM SAY NOT TO USE IT ON BRASS. I'd use a  metal polish 
like Noxon 9 - rub some of this on with a soft cloth or even  fingertips. it 
make take two or three applications before you can get ri of the  crud. some 
brass discoloration may remain but that won't interfere with an  airtight 
seal.

Winslow

Winslow Yerxa

Author, Harmonica For  Dummies ISBN 978-0-470-33729-5

Resident expert at  bluesharmonica.com

Harmonica instructor, jazzschool.com

Columnist,  harmonicasessions.com

--- On Wed, 4/7/10, Sean Murphy  <taser8@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

"From: Sean Murphy  <taser8@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Harp-L] Breathy harp?
To:  harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wednesday, April 7, 2010, 5:35 PM

I followed  Jason Ricci's "Mongoose Free" cleaning method on an old
inherited Special 20  last week, and had a couple of questions...

First, I note that despite  working it for a while (lightly! quickly!)
I've still got some pretty  significant discolorations on the plates -
I am chalking those up to residue  from the previous owner, am I
correct?

Of more concern, however, is  that the harp seems really...I don't know
how else to say it...breathy now.  That is to say, it plays fine on the
lower notes but as I move higher and  higher it seems like it takes
more and more wind to sound a note - I can hear  a very clear
windy/breathy sound before the notes blows, and even when  it's
sounding I can hear my breath hissing through the harp.

Any ideas  what might be causing this? I note that JR refers to making
the harp  "airtight" - could that be it? What does that entail? I
tightened it up  pretty solidly when I reassembled the harp, so I don't
think it's air leaking  between anything but I could well be wrong...

Thanks!
Sean"