Fwd: [Harp-L] re: Reed "profile"





Begin forwarded message:

From: Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx>
Date: June 16, 2009 4:44:22 PM EDT
To: JohnnieHarp <johnnieharp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] re: Reed "profile"


On Jun 16, 2009, at 3:58 PM, JohnnieHarp wrote:


Let me through another dimension in here. I've done quite a bit of
embossing recently on GMs and found that I will often more easily get
reed/reed slot contact in the middle of the slot. My impression is
that this happens with less embossing than at the tip.

Because of this, it has occurred to me that either the reed is
slightly wider in the mid point side to side than at the tip (the reed
doesn't have perfectly parallel sides) or the reed slot doesn't have
parallel sides. Again I'm referring to Golden Melodies.


Thoughts?
_
Here's a thought. I like the way you logic this but here's what happened: Let's just say that you purchased some large plastic panels from Lowe's and you want to cut them to install them in your overhead kitchen recessed florescent light boxes. You 'could' use a saw and they would probably explode. You 'could' use a laser if you were from the planet Xzenon 5.

But the best thing to use is a razor knife. You start by placing the knife along the straightedge and drawing the blade along that edge. You HAVE to start lightly and you probably won't want to shove down at the very edge of the sheet. Then, as you zip along several feet, you will probably ease off the pressure towards the end of the cut. See what I'm driving at here?

Most of your pressure is going to be concentrated at the MIDDLE as you make numerous light passes instead of a few powerful passes (which might crack the sheet). Your shoulder, elbow, and wrists, and yes, even fingers are ALL fulcrums. They will ALL proscribe some sort of an 'arc' as you cut. In conclusion, the only way to beat this is to emboss with a steady even stroke while pulling along and NOT turning your wrist.

smokey-joe




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