Re: Subject: [Harp-L] Re: New wind saver valve leather



For $15, Fields a large package of 2" x 2" samples that include the several thicknesses. They are also multi-colored but the harp won't care. I think that "Soft" is about as thick as a credit card and what PT Gazell uses for his half-valved diatonics. In PT's application, all of the valves are on top of the top plate and have gravity to help them lie flat.

"Light" is thinner and would, IMO, be more desirable for valves if it were not so limp. It sags away from the undersides of chromatic plates unless supported by something springy. Joe has suggested cat whiskers, mylar, and paintbrush bristles. I plan to try .004" diameter steel wire and flat springs photoetched from .002" SS shim stock, both the same stiffness as the .0015" x .05" steel springs from old Hohner leather valves. I'll report when I have results.

I just received my photoetch kit from MicroMark. It is a 13-step process that involves computer artwork, darkrooms, and a witches-brew of bubbling, caustic chemicals. It should be very educational.

The "perfect" valve could be the thin or "light" Ultrasuede, treated with fabric conditioner to make it water-resistant, backed up with a photoetched SS spring and working against a waxed reedplate.

The upholdtery-grade "ultraleather" is very thick, has a woven backing, and is, IMO, unsuitable for harmonica valves.

Trouble-free valves would be a boon to chromatic players!

Vern


----- Original Message ----- From: <EGS1217@xxxxxxx>
To: <bren@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 12:42 PM
Subject: Subject: [Harp-L] Re: New wind saver valve leather



Glad you posted this, Brendan. I was going to, but then figured either PT
or someone who'd actually made the valves out of ultrasuede would chime in...


I've done on-line searches for ultrasuede...there are many companies which
will send out free samples (more than enough to cut plenty of valves)....but
the big question is: what weight of the ultrasuede is the 'right' one for a
chromatic? I've forgotten if PT or anyone else has already mentioned it.


The last site I looked at (yesterday) had at least 4 differing
weights...from lightweight for clothing, up to heavy-duty upholstery weight.


Here's one site which will send out a couple of free samples:


_http://www.fieldsfabrics.com/ultra/shopping/sampleset.htm_ (http://www.fieldsfabrics.com/ultra/shopping/sampleset.htm)


In addition to being a good replacement, the ultrasuede (at least in my
opinion) would be a lot more sanitary if he plans to play the chromatic, but I
have an additional question for you...at this particular site they also sell
something called 'ultraleather' (free samples are also available to try
out)...and I was wondering if it might also make a good valve replacement while
staying 'truer' to the originals (and also perhaps easier to wipe clean)?.....the
colours are definitely realistic looking.


Regards,


Elizabeth


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:22:54 -0000 (GMT)
From:  "Brendan Power" <bren@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Harp-L] Re: New wind  saver valve leather
To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx

This thread caught my attention as I've been experimenting with a
synthetic leather valve material. I believe it was first used by my friend
and fellow half-valved harp player PT Gazell.


The information on the material was discussed publicly in Sldemeister a
few months back (valve issues are a hot topic there, as you'd expect!), so
I hope PT won't mind if I follow up here on Harp-L. It was that discussion
which prompted me to seek it out and give it a try.


There are lots of synthetic leathers on the market, but the one mentioned
on Slemeister was Ultrasuede, invented in Japan in 1970:


http://www.ultrasuede.com/

I ordered some and tried it out in my harps, all of which (chromatics and
diatonics) are half-valved. For me, I find it works better in diatonics
than chromatics. On my diatonics, I had trouble with buzzing valves in the
lower holes, which was difficult to fix.


Valving the lower holes with Ultrasuade cured that problem. It also gives
a slightly softer tone to the valved reeds, getting closer to the sound of
an unvalved harp. I presume this is because the seal on the reedplate is
not quite as perfect as with a conventional valve, so a tiny bit of air is
seeping through - but that's just conjecture.


You have to cut out your own valves (I use a steel ruler and a sharp
blade, but scissors are fine too). I attach with a tiny drop of Superglue.
On longer valves I also attach a light plastic spring on top of the
Ultrasuade to ensure the valve instantly returns to its seating position
with breath changes.


If Rick's leather refurbishing fix doesn't work, Ultrasuede could be the
solution for Paul's problem with his old leather-valved chromatic.


Brendan Power
WEBSITE:  http://www.brendan-power.com
YOUTUBE:  http://www.youtube.com/BrendanPowerMusic



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