Re: [Harp-L] REED REPLACEMENT


On Dec 5, 2009, at 9:33 AM, Brian Walker wrote:

Can a brass reed replace a phosphor reed and vs versa?

Yes, the only affect a phosphor bronze reed has is that it is stiffer. The sound should be the same. If the phosphor bronze reed is TOO stiff (action wise) and doesn't flex as quickly as the brass reed that it replaced (or the neighboring reeds), it can be 'shaved'. That means that the ENTIRE reed can be taken down a few microns.
You know that by removing material on the rivet end of a reed you lower the pitch and if you remove material on the tip you raise the pitch. Well, if you remove material on the entire reed, the pitch can be kept the same but the reed winds up being more supple (read bendable). This can be a good thing or bad depending on how hard you play.

Will a reed from a cheap Bluesking work in an upper end harp say Vintage 1923 or Marine Deluxe?

This can be iffy. Some reeds work, some don't. Example: I have used Hohner reeds in Herings. The Hohner reeds always sound a wee bit softer in timbre. In other words, not as sharp a ping. I have also used Hering reeds in Hohners. The result was that the Hering reed was a wee tad brighter. One thing that WILL mater is how well the rivet is seated. If the rivets aren't seated tightly, ALL reeds will be duller than the one you removed (when it was new).

It is also possible to use a diatonic reed in a chromo. As a general rule, the diatonic reed will not be the same length as a chromo reed of the same pitch. This can be adjusted. As a general rule, Hohner reeds are wider than Hering slots. This can be adjusted either at the reed or the slot. (I prefer the slot). Yesterdaay I replaced 'The reed from hell'.

Someone had repaired a Hering chromo by replacing a reed with another reed and while tuning, they wrecked the reed. When they tried to put in another reed, they wound up with a sloppy rivet hole. They then resorted to a screw. So now the hole was too big for a rivet, so they used a very small nail (which I have done also), so that's not a problem.
Aaaanyway, by the time things were over, we had a hole .053 in the reed plate (rivets are about .030). I took a gas jet from a Scripto disposable lighter (OD .070), twirled it in my fingers with sandpaper till it was .054, and then forced it into the hole under pressure. Then I filed it flush with the plate. Then I used a needle with a cruciform (3 sided) point to open up the hole in the gas jet from . 010 to .025. It took 2 tries, but I was finally able to seat a new Hohner reed and rivet. The Hohner reed was not only wider but also longer than the old reed. I filed the slot wider & longer. Conclusion? over 2 1/2 hours and lots of grief..but it works fine.

Naturally, you would be crazy if you attempted this for a customer. It wouldn't be worth it. Buy a new reedplate set. I only wish they sold individual plates. lololol

smokey-joe (the Cafe s, Slim Buckston band, Stoney Brooks band) 



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