[Harp-L] Pedal Problems
Leo,
The MicroPog is not true bypass and it increases the gain of the
signal when it is not engaged. I have one and this has been my
experience with the MP. The Boss pedals are not true bypass either,
and may or may not be contributing to the problem (i don't use Boss
pedals, so I'm not sure). I don't know whether the Rotomachine is
true bypass or not. (I use a RotoSim which is true bypass.) The
problem of signal gain increase from pedals that are not true bypass
will be most evident going into a tube amp, and a BJ is a high gain
amp anyway. Using a high gain mic doesn't help, either.
Using a compressor first in the chain may help. Using an MXR 10 band
EQ which is true bypass and has sliders that can reduce gain as well
as sliders that adjust frequencies may also help. Changing your mic
and using mostly true bypass pedals will definitely help, but that
can be an expensive solution. I've been using a pedal board lately
and all my pedals are true bypass except for my MicroPog.
Other suggestions: Lose the FDR. The BJ is high gain anyway and
using the FDR with a BJ is just asking for feedback. Put the MP
BEFORE the Rotomachine in the chain. Set the left knob on the MP at
10 o'clock and the other 2 knobs at 2 o'clock or 2:30. Use a Shure
545 Ultimate and back off the volume control to 9 o'clock (11 o'clock
is full volume) to reduce and smooth out the input gain from the mic.
A 545 has proximity effect and when cupped tight a 545 will give you
all the grit you want or need but can sound clean, too, when you want
it to. Using an Audix Fireball V will definitely smooth everything
out and reduce feedback, but may or may not sound too "clean." But
with such a high gain amp and the non-true bypass pedals, the
Fireball V may compensate nicely and sound okay. It's a trial and
error thing. (Btw, an original Fireball will be too bright to use
with an amp, although it sounds pretty good into a PA).
Hope this helps.
FWIW
JP
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