Re: [Harp-L] Reed problem

[Winslow Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx>]

>From what you describe, the reed may either be obstructed in its movement or be fatigued and ready to break.

==DIAGNOSING OBSTRUCTED MOVEMENT

If you hold the reedplate up to the light, does it appear that one side of the reed is closer to the slot edge than the other, or that the sides of the reed are not parallel with the slot edges? (Rotate the reedplate from side to side to avoid parallax errors.) Do you see burrs sticking out anywhere?

If you gently press the reed down into the slot, does it move - and spring back freely without scraping the edge of the slot? (use something firm but not sharp enough to scratch the reed, such as a toothpick, and press gently  somewhere in the middle of the reed length, not at the base).

==DIAGNOSING REED FATIGUE

If there is no apparent misalignment or burring, and if the reed moves freely without scraping, then the reed may be ready to fracture. If you plink the reed (lift a few millimeters and release) several dozen times, and the pitch starts to drop rapidly, it's on its way out. If so, you can keep plinking until the red no longer springs back and then breaks off.

==REMEDYING REED OBSTRUCTION

However, if the reed is hanging up because it's hitting something, you can either change the reed alignment in the slot or clear the obstruction.

To change the alignment, you can either pivot the reed at its base with a reed wrench, or you can nudge nudge the edge of the reed VERY gently by lifting the reed slightly, inserting the toothpick, and nudging that edge of the reed away from the slot. Be very careful not to twist or deform the reed. Nudge the reed slightly, check it visually, plink it to see if it vibrates freely, then holding it ont the comb and try playing it. If you nudge too far, you can nudge it back in the other direction.

If there is a burr or if the slot has become too narrow for the reed (for instance as a result of aggressive embossing) you can swage the slot wiith a shim, a thin piece of metal such as a feeler gauge or the thin bits of steel that you can cut out of the little plastic envelopes that are stuck to merchandise as anti-theft devices. Insert the shim between the reed and the slot (if you can't insert the shim vertically that's a clue that the reed may be misaligned and too close to the slot). Run the the shim up and down the length of the slot, using the edge to abrade away anything sticking out, such as burrs or the slot edge.

==REMEDYING REED FATIGUE

Rick Eppping recently posted a trick for temporarily splinting a nearly dead reed with cigarette paper and glue. However, the reed once on its way is not permanently recoverable. Either learn to replace reeds or get new reedplates.

Hope this helps.

WInslow

Winslow Yerxa

Author, Harmonica For Dummies ISBN 978-0-470-33729-5

--- On Thu, 4/9/09, Rick Davis <bluesharpamps@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Rick Davis <bluesharpamps@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Harp-L] Reed problem
To: "Harp-L" <Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thursday, April 9, 2009, 12:33 PM

Yesterday while practicing I blew out the 4-draw reed on a stock Special 20
in the key of C.  First the reed seemed to stick for a second, then it
played very badly.

When I took the harp apart the reed appeared normal but seemed to barely
touch the side of the reed slot.  I could not see a way to fix it
without indlicting more damage on the fragile reed.  I didn't see any
foreign matter on the reed or reed plate.  Rinsing the harp had no effect.

Is this fixable?  What should I do the next time this happens?

What about harps with replaceable reed plates.  I don't much care for the
Hohner MS harps.  The Lee Oskar reed plates are much cheaper.  Do you have
opinions regarding these systems?

I very much appreciate any help you can offer, but please resist the urge to
lecture me about playing too loud.  I play the way I play.  I'm looking for
equipment solutions, not opinions about how to play the harp.  We could go
for weeks on that red herring.
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