Re: [Harp-L] Cracked Chromatic Comb

[David Payne <dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Gorilla glue will expand as it sets. You do not want that. 
   
  OK, on the crack repair, here is the crack repair I came up with. It's best to make an initial repair with the harp together. Once you take it apart, it's a three piece puzzle with a missing piece in the middle ( the absence of wood in the crack). 
  Once you take it apart, if you glue a big crack together, not only do you run the chance of lopsidedness, unevenness or worse, a comb that's shorter than it should be. 
  On the cracks, I like to repair those with the harp together. I use a sandable wood expoxy, take a bamboo skewer and split it into very thin shims. I get the expoxy on theose shims pretty well, then work them inside the crack (from the bottom of the harp) and cut them flush.. If the crack goes all the way through, I work very carefully from the top, try to get as much expoxy as I can in the crack. Get as much epoxy as you can in from the bottom. You can also use wood glue here. Be mindful you don't want to go inside the comb too far and get glue on a reed by mistake. I think that would be hard to do, but mind it. 
  
Now, with the slide assembly off, and do the same thing from the top. Look down into the harp, see if the crack runs all the way to the top. If it does, get some expoxy, glue, shim, whatever, into the very top of the crack. 
  Let it sit overnight, then take the reedplates off and finish the repair. 
   
  Let it all set up, sand everything lightly, then seal the comb. Then, it's better than new and shouldn't crack again..
   
   
  Dave
  _____________________
www.elkriverharmonicas.com 
   
   
  Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
  
On Aug 11, 2008, at 1:18 AM, jcolbyspell@xxxxxxxx wrote:

> Should a mere mortal attempt to fix a cracked chromatic comb. I 
> have a Super Chrominica that has the wall between an upper and 
> lower chamber cracked. What is the best method? Gorilla Glue has 
> been suggested. What have other people tried? I would rather put 
> time in it than money so I don't really want to replace the comb.
>
> Colby

The following is an excerpt from page 23 of my book 'Harmonica 
repairs for Strunzes'

1.. There is no reason to replace a cracked wood comb that is 
otherwise stable. By stable, we mean straight. level, plumb, not 
bowed, not twisted, or otherwise distorted.

You can use a plethora of household items and it is not necessary to 
run to the store. Some of the items are:
a... Model airplane glue (wood & fabic)
b... Model cement for plastics (styene)
c... Duco household cement (for china leather etc)
d... Thickened fingernail polish/varnish
e... Caulking (mix with an equal amount of water)
f... Elmer's white glue
g... Furniture glue

While I don't recommend super glue, that's what 'I' use. I mix an 
equal amount of super glue to an equal amount of TALCUM. UNthickened 
super glue will run right through a hairline crack and virtually 
destroy anything that is on the other side.

I remove only ONE reed plate and work the putty into the crack. 
Sometimes I use a toothpick, sometimes a sliver of razor blade.

If you want/need to match the color of the comb, mix in small 
'dustings' of Hershey's dry unsweetened COCOA powder until you reach 
the color you desire (Circassian walnut). Make a spatula about the 
size and shape of a guitar pick from the flexible lid from a coffee 
can or other food item. Work your putty into the crack(s). After 
allowing a 'gassing-off' period (say 2 1/2 hours) you're good to go.

There's more, but this will get you where you want.

smokey-joe and the Cafe s 

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