Re: [Harp-L] Marine Band Deluxe
Ken, I appreciate that info. I've got a prewar Bandmaster C that is a short slot... of course, there's always plenty of exceptions to the rule.
Dave
_____________________
Dave Payne Sr.
Elk River Harmonicas
www.elkriverharmonicas.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Ken Hildebrand <airmojoken@xxxxxxxxx>
To: David Payne <dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Harp L Harp L <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 9:30:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Marine Band Deluxe
I'm pretty sure that the Lee Oskar D harps are long
slotted based on conversations with Jimi Lee at the
2007 Buckeye.
Jimi played mainly Lee Oskars before the Seydel 1847's
became available, and he remarked how he couldn't wait
for the 1847 D harp (long reed/slot) to come out, and
he liked the LO D harp because of its long reed/slot.
And of course the Sedel 1847's are now available in
the long reed/slot D harp, as well as Eb, E, F, but
the F# is a low F#, and there's a Low C available too.
Ken H in OH
--- David Payne <dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Everybody blows out the D first, it's not just you.
> As you move up the keys, starting at G, G-C are
> typically all the same reedplate, the slots and
> reeds are longer. When you get to D, you move up to
> the short slot, that goes up to F#. That's why the
> usual D keeps blowing out... the 1847 is the only
> long-slot D I can think of. If someone else knows of
> one, I'd like to know what it is.
>
> Dave
> _________________________
> Dave Payne Sr.
> Elk River Harmonicas
> www.elkriverharmonicas.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx>
> To: pdxharpdog@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Cc: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 4:09:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Marine Band Deluxe
>
>
> On Apr 25, 2008, at 3:22 PM, pdxharpdog@xxxxxxxxxxx
> wrote:
>
> > Hi list - I have a MB Deluxe in the key of D that
> I bought from a
> > friend who didn't like the reed plate ridges. I
> fell in love with
> > it - very loud, bright and with fast response -
> so I tuned it a
> > bit yesterday and when I played it last night I
> cracked the same
> > reed (draw 5) that I had just tuned. It cracked
> and broke smack dab
> > in the middle of the reed length - no where near
> where I sanded off
> > the tip. Is this just a coincidence that it was
> the same reed I tuned?
>
> Yes. The reed was already failing. That's why it was
> loosing pitch.
> Your tuning may have exascerbated it (depending on
> which angle the
> torque was applied).
>
> > I slipped a shim under the reed and carefully
> sanded with a small
> > sanding wand as per Rupert's video.
>
> Yes, as long as you went directly toward the rivet
> OR directly away
> from it, you were probably fine. As long as the shim
> was thin enough
> and you went PAST that fracture point. If you didn't
> go past the
> fracture point, you may have given downward pressure
> which 'pinched'
> the crack that was already IN the brass.
> >
> > How tough is it to replace a reed, and where would
> I find rivets to
> > replace the drilled out one?
>
> It is iffy to replace a reed and takes practice. I
> would practice on
> another junker first. The rivet shouldn't be drilled
> out, It sould be
> filed on the bottom side and then punched half way
> out and then the
> entire rivet pad should be pried with a razor knofe
> till it is free.
> Then the rivet should be chamfered on the very tip
> to remove the
> 'flare'. This way it is reusable. You can make a
> rivet from a paper
> clip. Taper it into a drift pin (i.e. the tip is
> every so slightly
> smaller in dia than the main wire dia.) After
> seating the rivet, you
> can clip off the top with cuticle cutters or other
> close cutting
> cutters and begin to 'peen' a head onto the wire.
> THEN clip off the
> bottom (opposite side of reed plate), and do the
> same.
>
> > Would any reed of the same width and length get me
> back in the game
> > with my harp?
>
> Not necessarily, you either find a reed that is the
> same pitch OR one
> that is LOWER. Then after seating, file the new reed
> UP to the
> correct pitch.
>
> > I'm not an expert under the hood guy, but want to
> learn. Right
> > now everytime I go under the hood I feel like I'm
> ruining my harps
> > a bit less often than in earlier attempts. I
> never mess with new
> > harps - just the ones in the boneyard.
>
> Yes, do it that way.
> >
> > Also - it seems as though I replace D keyed harps
> more than any other.
>
> Me too.
>
> > And it really doesn't matter what brand.
>
> Right.
>
> > I am a SP20 stock guy most of the time
>
> I play spl-20 exclusively
>
> > , but loved the MB Deluxe until it died and have
> lost Delta Frosts
> > in the key of D as well. I play other keys way
> more often - G's
> > and A's seem to last forever as do C's. B flats
> are problematic
> > for me as well. Anyone else have keys that crap
> out on them with
> > more regularity than other keys?
>
> Just the Ds. Also. I have never had a good F.
> >
> > I have an SP20 custom, key of A from Bob Meehan
> that is 2 years old
> > and still in tune and working fine. I also have a
> couple of Tim
> > Moyers Journeyman harps that are more than two
> years old and they
> > work awesome as well. Seems I'm a bit cursed with
> the D harps.
>
> No, this is common.
>
> smokey-joe
> >
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any direction you can give
> me.
> >
> > PdxHarpdog
> > www.myspace.com/sassparillajugband
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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> >
> >
>
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