Re: [Harp-L] Custom Quirks



My plates are Seydel Favorites or 1847s, they have two holes through the comb teeth and I think that's perfect. A lot of folks think the more screws the better, I remember repairing a Suzuki Overdrive and it only had, I think two screws or something and I was in horror, yet the harp was tight enough. Since then I've figured out that havimg a whole lot of screws on a harp isn't necessary if the plate/comb mate it flat. Chris' Marine Bands don't come with screws drilled already, so he came up with his own system. 

My Seydel reedplates have 5 points of pressure, two through the comb teeth at top and three I think on the bottom, with the coverplate screws adding pressure on the end. Seydel actually has extra vestial holes drilled in the reedplates, but adding screws there make it no tighter. That's probably why Seydel doesn't put them there.
People buy these harps and just tighten the Bejezees out of the screws, overtightening creates air leaks. I smooth out the side of the comb, re-install factory screws in a pattern, center out, tighten screws untill flush only, in a pattern center out, then go back torque screws in the same pattern with light pressure. Usually it's like half a turn past flush (I'm guessing) or something.
Dave
______________________
Dave Payne Sr. 
Elk River Harmonicas
www.elkriverharmonicas.com  

----- Original Message ----
From: Chris Reynolds <c_reynolds2571@xxxxxxxxx>
To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:06:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Custom Quirks

I can't speak for anyone else but as far as screw patterns go, on the marine bands I do I put 9 screws in the reed plates, 4 along the back, 3 at the front, and one on each end. Plus the two cover plate screws. On harps like the blues harp, or marine band deluxe, or big river I only use the screw holes that the manufacturer has put in, just because it will make it easier for the person to replace the reeds on their own without needing to drill new holes in the reed plates, I just figure it would make it easier on them. 

As far as putting the two screws near the front for the cover plates, I can't answer that one, it could be to use existing holes. I prefer them in the middle of the cover plate but I don't know as it really makes any difference, at least from my limited experience. 

Chris 

http://www.blowyourbrassoff.com
http://www.builderofstuff.com
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http://www.myspace.com/builderofbluesharps


Just a man, his shop, and a long list of unfinished projects...
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 20:00:34 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Paul Bowering 
> Subject: [Harp-L] Custom Quirks
> To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <329956.53557.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Lots of talk 'bout their value. I have yet to bite; mostly for the reason 
> another lister stated. Once I get the one I'll want thirty or forty of them. I 
> really should get some but up till now I've concentrated on working on my own 
> harps. I have some questions about making them airtight.
> 
> 1) Have customizers settled on a fairly standard screw hole pattern or do they 
> all exercise their own preferences? What do you recommend?
> 
> 2) Any customs have screws at the front of the comb tines? I tried this with 
> (mostly) success using 0-80 screws but it is risky and if the cover plates are 
> sufficient for keeping the front of the reedplates flush to the comb then I'd 
> rather not use the screws.
> 
> 3) Why does Mr. Harrison use only cover plate screws at the front. Most others 
> seem to use four screws.
> 
> I hope pressing for answers to these questions don't ruffle any feathers. The 
> best customizers might like to guard the deep magic of their craft but I get a 
> general sense they don't mind divulging the principles because reed work takes 
> lots of skill.Knowing what we're trying to accomplish and being able to acheive 
> it is what seperates the pros from the rest of us hacks.
> 
> Paul





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