Re: [Harp-L] Shortening slots




On Apr 12, 2008, at 1:09 AM, Paul Bowering wrote:


I came up with a fairly radical but potentially great altered tuning.

Ok, and since you don't specify whether you are tuning up or down, this leaves some questions. Far be it for me to ask what the tuning is because I have found out (the hard way) that sometimes, one's own tuning is something to covet. So, I won't ask for you to expound.


The problem is that the first hole would require too great a retune to be feasible.

Ok, again, I don't know which way you are going, but assume that you are going UP and the amount of material you would have to remove from the reed would be too great. Inasmuch as most up tuning is done on the free end's 30%, one comes to a point where the tip of the reed would be the thinness of foil. This is never stable.


I planned to simply replace the reed but taking a reed from a short slot plate to put in a long slot plate doesn't work either.

Ok, again, because you seem to want to use a short reed, I assume you want to tune UP.


Any suggestions on how to fill in the slot a little to make it shorter?

There are many ways to do this job. But as customization tricks are even more closely guarded than your tuning, I would suspect that only a few people (who have no rice bowl to protect) will give you any definitive answers.


1... I would first try to use the existing reed. This may entail shaving the reed to wind up a sliver of metal that is just out and out plain easier to work with. The trade off could be lower durability.
2... If you are working with a weighted end, the proper procedure is to take metal away from the REAR of the weight. (In other words the edge towards the rivet pad or boss.
3... Naturally you want to try to stay away fro the 70% of the reed that will either take you neutral or down in pitch.
4... Using a smaller (shorter) reed, entails exactly how much you are dealing with in length.


5... If we're talking 1 mm or less here, I would suggest two things.
6... Move the rivet hole (take a piece of brass (or copper) wire and fill the existing rivet hole in the PLATE. Trim it flush with emory board. Drill another hole by centering the 'wire sized' bit (a tiny bit smaller than the rivet dia) ON the SEAM of the wire AND the plate brass in the direction you wish to go. In your case, that may be the seam closest to the dead end of the reed. This will already move the reed 1/2 mm and close up the slot tolerance.
7... Then you can take a nail set with which the tip has been ground/ filed to a SQUARE. It will need to be at least 2mm. Now placing this nail set with the leading edge 1 mm FROM the end of the free swinging end of the slot, punch a depression into the brass. This will swage some brass INTO the end of the slot. Don't expect more than 1/2 mm.


8... For distances greater than 1mm (total), I would take a piece of brass or copper (maybe a scrap reed with a weighted end). Stand it up in the end of the slot and solder in place. After set time, slice off the dangling participle, file the top & bottom and blend it in with the reed plate. This will give you a sharp clean edge for the reed to 'work' against. For really wide gaps, you will need to make a pin or plug from a larger piece of scrap brass. I have cigar boxes of itsy bitsy electronical parts around, so scout around. Some times a machine screw filed square will work. There is even the possibility of screwing a machine screw INTO the end of the reed slot and THEN after 'flush' cutting it top and bottom, filing the working side square.
9... These are the quick and dirty methods. I have made reeds out of razor blades, flattened bullet casings. It's all a gross amount of work but if you're young and have steady hands, the challenge is fun. It gives you a sense of accomplishment.


Good luck with your project, and BTW, Vern's method is coming from an engineering standpoint and is a permanent job.

smokey-joe


Paul


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