Re: [Harp-L] poor man's embossing station (with appropriate thanks)

Hi Ron and list,

I tune last, gap second to last, and do everything else before that....

For my average set-up the first thing I will do is reed-flatten, then score the reed lengthwise, press the reed heel into the slot, emboss, score the slot edges near rivet, establish clearance between the reed and slot, reshape reed, gap, tune...sometimes there's days between things to settle etc.


Rupert Oysler

Captron100@xxxxxxx wrote:
In a message dated 6/25/2007 1:37:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, harp-l-request@xxxxxxxxxx writes:

From:  Garry Hodgson <garry@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Poor man's  embossing station, with appropriate
To:  Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:  <2007062510051182780300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

Captron100@xxxxxxx wrote:

My procedure has been to finish gapping first, then emboss...... The
reason I only emboss half >>the length of the slot with the socket tool because embossing the >slot with this tool near the root >>will mash the rivet down and ruin your gap.

wouldn't that argue for doing the embossing first, and then gapping?

Gary, thank u for your input. Perhaps some more experienced harp tweakers may also chime in to give us the benefit of their experience. You may very well be correct. Another reason that your suggestion might be better is because if you slip with the glass cutter (that i mentioned in the second step) and ruin the reed, you won't have wasted all that time you spent on gapping. I'll have to give my Harp Repair CD another look and see if Rupert Oysler reveals his sequence. If he does, i'll letcha know.
I should have mentioned in my first post that when using the glass cutter, i start out with minimal pressure to establish a track for the cutter wheel, so it won't slip into the reed slot and ruin the reed. With successive passes I press harder, once I'm fairly confident the track will keep my glass cutter from slipping into the slot. To prevent this slippage, I've taken to using my feeler gauge held as a straight edge along the edge of the slot (and at the top of the slot too). Oh, btw, I forgot to thank my local hardware store for the glass cutter ($5) !
I like to start my gapping by pushing the reed down into the slot at the very base of the reed (with my fingernail or piece of toothpick - I'm still looking for better ways to do this - comments?). I theorized that all this reed work might be better performed before reducing the tolerances thru embossing. But, once again, your suggestion might be better. Thanks again. I look forward to reading more suggestions on how to improve. My harps are getting better and better.

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