[Harp-L] Re: DIY Amphenol mod to Green Bullet - advice please

[David Garcia <davidgm@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi, Jim.

Unlike in JT30-like cases, the hole of the cable in Shure bullets is way 
smaller than the part of the connector that goes inside the mic, so 
basically you have to options: to adapt the case or to adapt the connector. 
Adapting the case is better, as the connector is then screwed into the 
case, which means that it's more strongly attached to it and that you can 
unscrew it anytime you want for servicing, painting the case or 
whatever...The problem is that adapting the case is not an easy thing to 
do, and it's actually quite risky, as you have to be very careful if you 
don't want to ruin it. You have to cut a thread in it matching that of the 
connector. To do that you obviously need the special tool with the right 
thread, which is not an easy thing to get. And you have to take so much 
material off the case that the thickness of the "wall" between the hole and 
the back of the case is dangerously reduced, so that if you're not very 
careful you can get cracks in it -sorry if I'm not making myself too clear, 
my technical vocabulary of tools and their use is a bit reduced. I have a 
friend here in Spain who is a great mic builder and customiser, and he does 
the mod that way, but I can't do it myself, so when I have to do that mod, 
I go for the second option and I adapt the connector.

Adapting the connector means that you have to make it thin enough to fit 
the hole, and again, you have to take a lot of material off the thing. I 
use a Dremel tool for that. You can see how the connector looks after the 
process here: 
http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&friendID=51523264&blogID=93100186. 
The text is in Spanish, but you can see the pics and get the idea. As you 
can see, I wasn't too careful with the Dremel, and there are some scratches 
in the visible part of the connector. You want to take metal off to the 
point in which you have to push a bit hard to get the whole length of the 
inside part of the connector in the hole. If you take more off, it'll be 
too loose (but you can fix that anyway). Now, you can either use the screw 
in the back of the mic to press the connector inside and help having it 
fixed more tightly (drilling a small hole in the connector helps to 
accomodate the screw better) or use some kind of glue or epoxy-like 
composite to leave it completely unmovable. Myself, I only use the screw, 
and never had any problem, but I've done that mod for friends who are a bit 
less careful than me with their mics, and eventually it went a bit loose. 
You won't have that problem if you add a composite, but you won't be able 
to take the connector out in the future. I do this when modding 
BluesBlasters, substituting the Cannon for an on/off switch and the vol pot 
for a thread connector, as the connector is slightly smaller than the hole, 
and I use a product (can't remember the name now) made of two components: a 
sort of greyish metallic powder and a kind of glueish thing. You mix them 
together in variable proportions depending on your needs of thickness. 
Works pretty well.

By the way, you need to solder the hot cable to the center of the 
connector, and the ground to either the body of the connector or the case 
itself. If you do it to the connector, you'll need to take some material 
off the inside, because the solder won't catch in the original surface. If 
you do it to the case, the best way is to have a small flange (not sure if 
that's the right word...:P) screwed to the inside of the case with a screw 
getting in through a hole in the middle of the bigh hole originally used 
for the mic stand. Otherwise, the solder won't catch in the case material.

As far as I know, Switchcraft are the only ones still making the connectors 
and 1/4" adapters. Part numbers for the connector and adapter are 2051MP 
and 332A -or used to be last time I bought them from the local Switchraft 
retailer, which may be like one year ago. There are several sources in the 
net where you can get them though.

Anyway, hope this helps. And remember that there's no right or wrong way to 
do it. Whatever works best for you is the best way.

Best regards,

David


> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 14:21:09 +0100
> From: "Jim Broughton" <jim.broughton@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Harp-L] DIY Amphenol mod to Green Bullet - advice please
> To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <003e01c7d2ac$7e38fba0$0e00a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
> I've a Green Bullet that I've been using for years. Originally a 520D; now
> retro-fitted with a nice 70s white label CM. I cut the lead down to a
> rat-tail and use it with a Planet Waves circuit breaker guitar lead, so I
> have an on/off switch. Last gig, it started to crackle and pop horribly
> through my bassman and I was forced to go to my backup 545 mic.
> Investigating last night, I found thecable's shield which was acting as the
> earth was all broken up inside the tension relief spring.
>
> I've rewired it and it works fine, but it got me wondering about adding an
> amphenol connector - like on a JT-30 - and using an amphenol to 1/4"
> adapter. Seems like a more permanent solution (although it did take 15 years
> for this cable to break!) I've seen custom mics with mod done and I was
> wondering how easy it would be. Do I need to drill the casing? Adapt the
> connector somehow before fitting it? I know Keith Graham at the JT-30 store
> has the part I need, I'd just like some advice from anyone who's done this
> before.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim