Re: [Harp-L] Soaking harps

["Steve Shaw" <moorcot@xxxxxxx>]

> Steel parts that can rust will rust more quickly the more you expose
> them to moisture. This includes the mild steel rivets used to attach
> the reeds to the reedplates and may include the covers - check the
> underside for rust blossoms forming.
>
> If you feel that soaking has merit, you might dab each rivet with a
> protective coat of something that dries to a non-toxic finish, possibly
>
> nail varnish or other plastic-based paintable substance (careful not to
> let it clog the reed slot) and maybe coat the underside of the covers
> in a similar fashion.
>
> Additional parts on chromatics that can rust include the spring post on
> 270-style instruments and may extend to springs.
>
> Winslow


I've never seen rust on my rivets but corrosion does occur on harps with 
covers that are not stainless steel (or brass).  Hohner Echo harps are very 
prone to cover corrosion, but then I would never soak one of those anyway 
because of that fragile, unsealed wood comb.  The edge of the cover where it 
meets the reedplate is a moisture trap in the Echo as in many other harps, 
but you won't trap any more moisture by washing them than you will by 
playing them, and at least it's clean moisture.   I can't imagine washing 
any valved harp under the tap though I do clean my 270 slide by inverting 
the harp in a shallow dish of hot water and working the slide repeatedly.  I 
read about sticky slides but I've never had one.  The harp stays strictly 
upside down until dry.  I'm obsessed with getting my harps dry before 
putting them away.  A freshly-played harp put straight back into its box 
seems to be asking for trouble to me.

Steve


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