Re: [Harp-L] embossing

["Joe Spiers" <joemopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Here's how to make a tool that simplifies this. It will help preserve 
your sanity, eyesight and reedplates, enabling you to do a better job 
more efficiently.

First, you need the parts:

Glass baking dish
Masking tape, white
Duct tape
Lamp cord with plug
Lamp socket
Inline lamp switch (optional)
Flourescent fish tank bulb
Magnifying glass, 3 1/2" diameter lens/ 8" overall length, as powerful 
as you can find in that size.
Drinking glass (heavy duty)
Cover lens for welding helmet, clear (auto parts store should have 
this)

Assemble lamp socket, bulb, cord and inline switch. Insert lamp 
assembly into bottom of glass baking dish, and tape securely- keep 
tape off of bulb. Position the bulb as close to one side as practical.

Cover exterior of entire dish with duct tape, with the exception of a 
small square (approximately 1") over the bulb, which will allow light 
through. Cover the 1" square with one layer of white masking tape, or 
the light green will work well, this is to filter the light. If your 
glass dish is amber it may filter the light enough to not require 
this. The duct tape covering serves two purposes- it keeps light out 
of your eyes and contains the broken glass if the dog drags the lamp 
off the table while you're at work.

Put the clear cover lens over the lighted square, and secure with tape 
on the edges. This gives you a smooth flat surface to slide the 
reedplate around on.

Fasten the handle of the magnifying glass to an upside-down (heavy 
duty) drinking glass. The magnifying glass should be square to the 
work surface, and able to reach over the lighted area of the lamp/dish 
assembly, with a distance of approximately 2 1/2" between lens and 
work surface. I had to tape a board to the bottom of my glass baking 
dish to get the proper distance with the magnifying glass. This will 
also keep the bulb captive if the tape comes loose internally.

Now you have a portable embossing station with a rotatable magnifying 
lens, which also doubles as a reedplate warmer while tuning. I would 
recommend single strokes from the tip back, lightening pressure as you 
near the end the stroke to prevent over-embossing in the area where 
it's most destructive and difficult to undo. A pretty decent 1/4" 
ball-on-a-stick can be found in the form of an inexpensive radio 
antenna replacement mast at your auto parts store, just cut to size 
for the handle.

Good luck,
Joe Spiers