Re: [Harp-L] Reed embossing with a penny, Richard's way

[Joe and Cass Leone <leone@xxxxxxxx>]

The figure was actually 11.390625. No, seriously, I arbitrarily  
picked that figure as an example that the tool used shouldn't be too  
small or you will 'trench' down into the edges of the brass. If  
looking at a cutaway sectional view, you want the departure angle of  
the tool in relation to the edges to be relatively slight (maybe 9  
degrees or less). (About the same angle as the planing bottom of a  
speedboat). I used a glass marble as a young boy.

 This way, the 'swaging' of the brass INTO the slot will be sharp  
and near the top of the slot. A small tool will 'hook' the edges and  
force them into a downward angle. This would defeat the whole idea.  
Which is to get the sharp edges of the reed interacting with the  
sharp edges of the slot. I.E. less air leakage and more usable air  
column to work with.

A reed slot cutting tool has a certain cycle of usable times that it  
can punch. If the tool is getting near the end of it's life cycle, it  
will cut the slots with a rolled or rounded upper edge. Let's say the  
cycle were 1000 punches. Then the last 296 will not be as sharp as  
the first 704. Then the last 87 will be already nearing the  
diminishing returns area. Then the last 26 will be marginal at best.  
Then the last 7 plates really should be thrown out.

Sooo, if you get a harp that was near the end of a cutting tools life  
cycle, you may have a harp that you consider not up to usual  
standards. This is where embossing can help. Only a real pro can get  
the full benefits that embossing can bring. ANY ONE can get SOME  
benefit, but for most, it isn't worth the effort.

smokey-joe