[Harp-L] Re: Soldering Reeds

I prefer not to heat the reed before applying solder.  I've found that a
reed has so little mass that the molten solder itself will usually heat the
reed sufficiently within a second or so to bond.  This way, the reed is less
likely to become overheated in the process.  I don't know if it's even
possible to overheat a reed with a soldering iron - Vern might be able to
answer this one - but I think it takes a little less time and might be safer
to let the solder heat the reed.  I would guess that any overheating from a
soldering iron would not be high enough to affect a reed's temper but might
be enough to detension the reed and cause a temporary drop in pitch.

Best regards,
Rick Epping


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2007 14:48:39 -0700
From: fjm <mktspot@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Soldering Reeds
To: h-l <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <46196337.1010100@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

The low low F Seydel I have is just ok.  The dropped octave A I made
myself is better.  Vern had some very good advice on how to solder reeds
to lower pitch.  Here's a link to the archived post.


There are other discussions regarding soldering to lower reed pitch also
on the harp-l archive site.  There is some good advice from Douglas Tate
from a ways back.

Careful application of flux is key for my technique.  A low melting
temperature solder makes life easier.  I believe I used a 22 watt iron
with a small tip.  I've also used a 15 watt iron with success.  Support
the reed from underneath.  I use paper.  It will scorch, don't be
alarmed by this.  Heat the reed, apply the solder.  Flux the reed before
you heat it.  I use bamboo skewers to apply the flux.  the small tip
makes it easier to apply the flux exactly where I want it.  Try to keep
the solder on the very end of the reed.  fjm

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