Re: [Harp-L] Valved players unite!

[G <gigs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 09:36:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Winslow Yerxa <winslowyerxa@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Harp-L] Valved players unite! 
To: harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx
>
>Pierre wrote:
>>I think that with a valved harp you lose some of the deep bends
>Not quite true.
>
>First, Paul is talking about half-valving, not full valving.
>Second, full valving allows deeper bends than non-valving.
>To explain:
>Half valving means valving only one of the two reeds in any given hole,
>usually the higher-pitched reed.
>8<
>If we place a valve opposite the D draw reed, on the inside of the
>hole, it will be lifted out of the way of the D draw reed when you
>inhale. Draw bends will not be affected, as these required the action
>of the blow reed and the blow reed is not impeded. However, when you
>blow the valve will be plastered over the draw slot, shutting off any
>blow access to the draw reed, hence no overblows. However, the blow
>reed can now be bent down in pitch as an isolated reed. How far will it
>bend? Depends on player skill and reed setup, but four or five
>semitones is not out of the question.
>Four or five semitones? Is that not a "deep bend"?
>8<
>Winslow

Hello Winslow,
  I was interested in your email, especially regarding the range of valved
bends.  I know Ironman Mike Curtis has also stated that valved bends could
be taken down a number of semitones as well - I have his album.  
  Despite all this, I've yet to hear a musical example successfully
employing valved bends beyond a semitone.  
  Would you be so kind as to point us to such a musical excerpt please?

BTW there is a section on half valving diatonics on Chromatic Harmonica
Reference, 
http://www.angelfire.com/music/HarpOn/chroms.html#valved
and another section on valves which addresses some of the hassles, such as
buzzing, popping, etc.  
http://www.angelfire.com/music/HarpOn/maintwind.html

After a few years at this sort of thing, I've tried various homemade valves
with different tapes and materials, also I've sampled most of the various
big name brand valves, and I come to prefer using stock Hohner valves.  
  If you reside in USA, you can buy packs of these at retail price directly
from Hohner, USA in Richmond, VA - I believe Jude and Sissy are the people
to approach.  Otherwise you can ask your local music shop to request their
supplier ship in a pack in their next shipment, or buy them directly from
harponline.de in Germany which is probably the most convenient source for
those of us outside the USA.  

  I use a strong and relatively quick drying glue that will hold its own
under heavy use, yet easy to remove when the time comes to replace the valve.
  I retension the spring flap, a method Rick Epping described in an issue
of Harmonica Happenings magazine, I've put up a brief page that gives a
broad overview of the technique with Rick's blessing
http://www.angelfire.com/music/harmonica/ricksvalvetool.html
  I use a 300 grit sanding stick to rough up the reedplate surface where
the valve comes to rest. And ~never~ play a cold harmonica, especially when
it has valves - its sure fire way to invite trouble.  Warm your harmonica
up to slightly above breath temperature before blowing into it.  

Cheers,
-- G.
http://harmonica.7p.com