Re: [Harp-L] On reed problems

[Nicolas Fouquet <bbhcfr@xxxxxxxx>]

I tottally agree with Tim (almost), 
 
though I have been able to work correctly with a reed wrench, turning the base, althought I have had to fix the wrench into a big (I don't know the name in english) piece of wood that fits well into my hands and also to shange the profile of the Wrench, making it looking like a stair.
 
I would add one thing about what has been said about the slot tolerance: alright, that lok a very tiny small little mini change and move to go from 0.08 to 0.02, but if you do look at the harmonica's scale, that's huge! It is reducing that tolerance of 75%!! That's really big!!
 
Froggy

Tim Moyer <wmharps@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Siegfried wrote:
> Though Tim mentioned an interesting method to emboss
> the slot sides by a cylinder, I really doubt that 
> embossing achieves a noticable improvement. The 
> tolerance of a reed side to the slot wall is the thickness 
> of a razor blade = 0.08 mm and nobody can tell me that the 
> human ear can recognize a lesser tolerance. 

I have to respectfully disagree. Things might be different in the 
world of valved reeds played in such a way that the two-reed bends 
are denied. But in the diatonic world, where two reed systems are 
the rule, this embossing plays a dramatic role. I will agree that 
reedslot tolerances are in every case very tight, and perhaps the 
difference between factory tolerances and those tightened by 
customizers are nearly imperceptible by sight. But tightening 
tolerances makes reeds far more responsive to light air pressure, 
and can have a big influence on tone. 

> Above all, a crucial check has to be done before 
> embossing at all. The reed has to be absolutely 
> centered and that´s the problem. 

Here I am in absolute agreement. Narrowing reedslot tolerances will 
quickly reveal the minutest deviation from precise centering. These 
are quite quickly revealed by Siegfried's "translucent light" 
method, though one must take care to hold the reedplate at the 
proper angle and to not be fooled by one's own binocular vision. 

> If the reed is "only" twisted around the rivet, it can be 
> turned back at the root by a respective tool. 

I would suggest that another method for rotating the reed around its 
rivet is to slide a small (0.002") shim between the reed and the 
reedslot wall, and adjust the angle so that the reed is turned. 
I've never been able to be precise enough on riveted reeds using a 
reed wrench turning the base. 

-tim

Tim Moyer
Working Man's Harps
http://www.workingmansharps.com/





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