Subject: Re: [Harp-L] $10 for a Chromatic?..now ebay harps
Michael Easton writes about pre-owned harmonicas:
to which I now have to reply... even if Jimmy Gordon gets annoyed at me all
over again (G)...(speaking of whom...I'm still trying to find the time to
listen to your and Keith Dunn's CDs and write my reviews for CD Baby...VBG)
I have bought many harps from EBay, both diatonics (pre-war) and chromatics.
The particular one beginning this thread I found (as did Winslow) not to be
as advertised. It actually ended up going for $15. I've bought 64
Chromatics for a bit more than that, but the buttons were intact, the photos showed
less grunge...I asked detailed questions of the Seller before I placed my bids
and they were in excellent condition. One can usually acquire one for the
mid- $20 range.
I've developed my own techniques of cleaning any and all harps over the
past year. Jimmy took exception to the use of certain strong chemicals ("if you
can't put it in your mouth, you shouldn't be using it on your harps") ....he
has a point. However... I then go above and beyond for my personal
"sanitization" of these pre-owned harmonicas for my personal use in taking them apart
and general cleaning. I probably run a close second to our self-proclaimed
"OCD Sexy Rocker JR" in his cleaning ritual. Ash-tray harp-case
notwithstanding, lol, I can attest to just how clean are his harmonicas.
I won't even touch a newly acquired pre-owned harp with my bare hands until
I've first given it a good overall light scrubbing (holding it through a
paper towel) with a soft toothbrush dipped in alcohol. I switched to the purer
version based on Jason's advice. I rub over the top, bottom plates, and into
the mouthpiece, redipping the brush into the alcohol as needed. The short
bristles of the brush prevent any damage to the reeds at this point. Then a
rub down of the whole harp with a clean cloth (I use disposable "cloths" I buy
in a box of 200 - Scotts "Rags". They are softer than paper towels, can
still shred though, so one has to be careful when using around the reeds).
Since most of my EBay purchases are wood-combed, I don't soak them. Use of
the brush dipped in alcohol has so far prevented any wood swelling, while
doing a good sanitizing job...then I use orange sticks or sturdy toothpicks
(also constantly dipped into the alcohol) to get into all the nooks and
crannies. THEN it's time to dismantle the harps. With Chromatics, this is when one
finds out whether or not the valves are in good condition or not. I set
aside the cover plates, screws, mouthpieces, spacers -- all laid out in the order
they came off the harp. Then...and I'm only explaining this for those who
are willing to put as much time in and do this as meticulously as I do....I
use my MAAS metal polishing creme ...the tiniest amount --just a smidgen at a
time from the end of the tube on a cloth on either the tip of a finger or
cloth covered orange stick and work it over the entire brass surfaces. Then
polish the creme off the same way...I don't touch the reeds themselves. Rarely
some of the paste might touch a reed or intrude on a slot....then it takes a
lot of care to remove every trace....this IS time-consuming and a lot of
work. I then use the toothbrush again dipped in the alcohol to go over the
surface again and as has been already said here...only in the direction of the
reed.....to remove the traces of the polishing creme. Then work the
cloth/paper towel around the reeds to polish/buff the brass until it shines like gold.
This removes any of that green corrosion/darkened moisture marks on the
brass. I use the same polishing creme on all the metal surfaces, inside and
outside the cover plates, all the mouthpiece layers on the chroms and all the
screws and pins, cleaning afterwards with the alcohol again and buffing until
gleaming. I've found that the use of this particular polish on the underside
of all cover plates helps prevent any further moisture damage from normal
playing, so I rarely need to go though this again. There is a point where I'm
finally comfortable with the "cleanliness" of the harmonica. Only then do I
test it for playability. This might seem backwards, but it's the only way I
will trust buying and playing an old, used harp with who knows what it's been
exposed to.
I'm slowly learning how to gap.....I have bought the files to emboss/tune
(well, Froggy talked my husband into buying a set for me actually) but haven't
yet gotten up the courage to attempt it, even on a "practice" harp. My
prized oldest harp is a pre-war Marine Band in E that I bought on EBay and cleaned
for my use long before I realized just how precious an item it was. It's in
remarkable condition with amazing sound. It quite impressed Nicolas.
As far as "knowing" what one is bidding on? ....caveat emptor. I asked all
the correct questions of one seller...the photos were there of the several
270 chromatics she was selling in various keys (which I wanted)...I bid and
won 3. Paid via PayPal. Every one came in with cracks through the wooden
backs (not there in the photos). Were obviously water exposed (rusted
slides/buttons), just as Michael has described. At first the Seller was more than
willing to return my money as long as I gave no negative feedback. We agreed on
everything. Then dead silence. PayPal finally got involved (there is some
backup insurance there, supposedly)...but the upshot was I lost $75.00 so far
unrecoverable since this Seller withdrew any funds in her PayPal account and
as long as she does not continue to use PayPal, they have no way of
penalizing her, yet had told me to return the harps in order to recoup my money.
Catch-22. She got back the harps AND all the money. I got back a big $29. out
of $104. No justice. Don't assume that even when you have won your case
with PayPal, that you will recoup. For the most part though, I've gotten such
remarkable deals on both chromatics and vintage harps I'm more than satisfied
with the overall experience, though the thought did strike me too, that
there will be a flood of water-damaged harmonicas hitting the market over the
next year or so. Better to walk away from the deal than have a completely
damaged, useless instrument.
One last point...I've salvaged the button off a very poor condition
chromatic (bought cheaply for parts) to switch to a good one missing its button...and
Gorilla Glue proved perfect. It works for metal-to-metal contact (as well
as everything else)...no solder required. Has held up for months now, with no
sign of loosening. Didn't need a vise, just sandwiched the harp with some
pressure on the button (the harp sitting flat) between heavy books as it dried.
Elizabeth
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